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FROM AMERICA TO RUSSIA 



IN SUMMER OF 1897 



EDITED BY 

A. V. D.HONEYMAN 



PL A INFIELD, N.J.: 

HONEYMAN & COMPANY 

z8 97 




TWO COPIES WtCtlVED 

■ih- ^ 



3454 



Copyright, 1897, by 
Honeyman & Company 



[the library] 
1 of c ongr ess 

i WASHINGTON! 



PREFACE. 



'THIS is the third volume in what is intended 
to be a series of annual books of traveh 
printed for private circulation among members 
of the H. P. T. parties to Europe and their 
friends. It will be found not to fall below pre- 
vious ones in interest. The Tour described in. 
eludes Norway and Sweden, as well as Russia 
in its scope. The contributors' names are 
affixed to each article. 

A. V. D. H. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



T. New York to Antwerp, 

J I. Coaching: Antwerp to Worcester, 

III. Coaching: Worcester to Coventry, 

IV. Coaching: Coventry to Oxford, 

V. England to Norway, 

VI. Along the Norwegian Coast, 

VII. Across Norway, 

VIII. Across Sweden, . 

IX. In Stockholm, . 

X. Fjnland and St Petersburg, 

XI. The Old Russian Capital, 

XII. Our Longest Railway Journey, 

XIII. Berlin and Its Environs, 

XI V. A Day in Amsterdam, 

XV. Homeward Bound, 



Page. 

9 

15 

23 

32 

40 

51 

61 

66 

79 

88 

98 

115 

122 

137 

152 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Facing Page. 
On the West Gotha Canal, Sweden, 

(frontispiece.) 
Oscar II, King of Sweden and Norway, . 8 ' 

Coaching in Oxfordshire, . . .20 

The Lodge, . . • • .24 

Starting from the Red Horse Inn, . 26 

Coaching: Between Kenilworth and 

Coventry, . . • .34 

Lincoln Cathedral— West Front, . 42 

A Norway Fjord, . . • .44 

The Steamer " Neptun," . . 48 

A Norwegian Home, . . . ■ 52 

Molde, ....•• 54 
A Norwegian Stole jaerre, . . 58 

King Oscar's Summer Chateau, . 62 

The Holmenkollen Hotel, Christiania, 04 

Street View in Gothenburg, . . 70 

A Fjord Late in the Afternoon, . .80 

The King's Garden, Stockholm, . 86 

Russian Drosky and Driver, . . 90 

The Singing Deacon of St. Isaac's, . 96 

Cathedral of the Assumption, Moscow, 104 

Cathedral of St. Basil, Moscow, . .108 

The King of Bells, Moscow, . .114 

The Young Holland Queen, . . 150 



"The bee, though it finds every rose has a thorn, 
comes back loaded with honey from its rambles, and 
why should not other tourists do the same.— "J/a/i- 
burton. 




Oscar II., King of Sweden and Norway. 

Born Jan. 21, 1829 ; ascended the joint throne of Sweden and 
Norway 1872, succeeding his brother, Charles XV. He is known 
as a wise and intellectual monarch, endowed with much taste 
for and accurate knowledge of art, science, poetry and music. 




FROM AMERICA TO RUSSIA. 



NEW YORK TO ANTWERP. 



ON the afternoon of Wednesday, June 
30, 1897, promptly at half past four 
o'clock, the S. S, "Kensington," of 
the Red Star line, drew out from her pier with 
the Honeyman Party, twenty-one in number, 
among her full quota of passengers. Gradual- 
ly the group of friends, waving good-bye with 
their handkerchiefs, faded away in the dis- 
tance, and the wide separation of two conti- 
nents and the absence of many days seemed to 
be crowded into the feelings of a moment. It 
is a sensation to which even an old traveler 
never becomes entirely hardened. Slowly the 
steamer passed down the Bay and through the 



io From America to Russia. 

Narrows, and pushed her nose oceanward. 
And now new thoughts had begun to engross 
our attention in the direction of prospect and 
anticipation, for these suggest uncertainties 
and untried experiences. 

There are three leading factors which enter 
into a sea voyage, and contribute largely to its 
comfort or discomfort. These are the steamer, 
the passenger list and the weather. It is diffi- 
cult to say which is the most important. Any 
one of these may do much to ruffle or to 
smooth one's peace of mind. 

As for the steamer, much may be said in 
praise. We found her comfortable, the ser- 
vice courteous and attentive; and a steadier 
deck in a sea one could scarcely hope to tread. 
When the "Kensington" reached port there 
were many who expressed the wish that they 
might some time cross in her again. 

As for the company on board, a pleasant 
party of our own made it possible for us to be 
quite independent. However, among the other 
passengers there were many agreeable people 
who added greatly to the pleasure of the voy- 
age, and it was not long before an unusual de- 
gree of sociability prevailed throughout the 
ship. Although many of the "II. Ps." were 
unknown to one another at the start, there was 



New York to Antwerp. 1 1 

an early opportunity for making the begin- 
ning of an exceedingly pleasant acquaintance. 
Through the prearrangement of the Manager, 
places had been so secured that the members 
of the party were able to sit together at the 
first table, and we soon met for our first meal. 
Ah, the first meal on an ocean steamer! 
What qualities of soul it calls into play! Self- 
confidence and prudence go hand in hand, and 
smiling heroism covers up a lurking suspicion 
with reference to the probabilities of such an- 
other unanimous meeting, for wind and wave 
have not yet settled down to work. Joyfully 
the poet sings, 

"O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea, 
Our thoughts as boundless and our souls 
as free;" 

only that depends. It depends upon circum- 
stances, for there are circumstances at sea that 
may annihilate all poetry, set a decided limit to 
thought and make the fettered soul sigh for 
freedom. As one of our number expressed it, 
for a time he felt as though he did not know 
whether he was "comin' or gwine." But this 
was not so with most of the party, and with him 
only for a short time, for the voyage was on 
the whole an easy and pleasant one. Occasion- 
allv there was a little wind with rain and 



I 2 



From America to Riissit 



roughened sea, but not sufficient to make it a 
stormy passage. 

So the days slipped by, as days will both on 
sea and land. Time passed rapidly. Hours 
were restfully spent, as, wrapped' in rugs, 
we reclined in our steamer chairs, dozing or 
reading-, as the fancy seized us. Things there 
always are to interest one— a passing vessel 
heralded by the toot of the lookout's horn, sig- 
naling port or starboard; the changing cloud 
effects, which, with nothing- to interrupt the 
view, unfold with kaleidoscopic variety and ex- 
hibit ever new beauty. Time is employed 
pleasantly and profitably in conversation. The 
steamer from its "beginning," as one lady 
styled it, to the stern, offers ample room for 
restlessness to work itself off in exercise. And 
the bugle call has almost always an agreeable 
and inviting sound for the ears of every one. 
This voyage was especially marked by one 
event. Independence Day was spent at sea. 
Falling on a Sunday, it was appropriately ob- 
served by the officiating clergyman praying for 
the Queen of England and the Prince of 
Wales; and by an elaborate dinner in which 
Independence pudding, Fourth of July pie and 
firecrackers, furnished by our Manager, fig- 
ured prominently. And a further celebration 



New York to Antwerp. 13 

was held on the following evening, when an 
excellent concert was given and fireworks were 
displayed — a novel and beautiful sight at night 
time in mid-Atlantic. Twice the passengers as- 
sembled in the saloon for an evening's enter- 
tainment, and on each occasion an "Honor- 
able" member of the H. P. T. presided. 

In this delightful manner the days of our 
voyage passed all too swiftly, until on the 
evening of Friday, July 9, about ten o'clock, 
the light on one of the Scilly Islands was sight- 
ed. Our thoughts now began to anticipate port. 
Saturday dawned a beautiful day, which was, 
you may be sure, fully appreciated, as it afford- 
ed a good opportunity for enjoying the passage 
through the Channel. Sails and funnels be- 
came more frequent. The English coast was 
kept most of the time in sight. We passed 
very close to the Isle of Wight, and late in the 
evening* the lights of Folkestone, then of 
Dover and Calais, became visible. 

On Sunday morning we witnessed a trans- 
formation scene. While on board, shore 
clothes almost destroyed personal identity, 
without the vessel it was no longer open sea, 
but the banks of the Scheldt hemming us in on 
both sides. Flushing had been passed early 
in the morning, and now we were slowly wind- 



14 From America to Russia. 

ing our way up the river. Long shall we re- 
member the quaint and picturesque view that 
greeted our eyes as we appeared on deck that 
last morning— the dikes, strong and well built, 
suggesting that the familiar story of the boy 
who kept back the flood with his finger needed 
the attention of the higher criticism; the queer 
Dutch windmills lazily turning in the gentle 
wind; the straight rows of trees lining the high- 
ways; the odd little farm houses, the upper 
parts of which were alone visible, the re- 
mainder being hidden by the dikes; and now 
and again the Dutch peasantry, men and wo- 
men, in the hayfields, taking advantage of the 
bright sunny morning to toss and rake the 
new-mown hay. 

At eleven o'clock the steamer was at her 
dock in Antwerp. After going through the 
usual ordeal with the customs officers, we pro- 
ceeded to the Hotel du Courrier, and so com- 
pleted the first stage of our journev. 

William Russell Benkett. 




II. 



COACHING: ANTWERP TO WOR- 
CESTER. 

A SHORT drive brought us to the Grand 
Hotel du Courrier; then followed a 
few hours' rest in a room which 
looked out on the pretty court garden. 

The Cathedral chimes at Antwerp ring every 
quarter of an hour, and so speedily attract to 
the Notre Dame the stranger who hears their 
musical notes. At five we went to the organ 
service. The famous Rubens pictures, alas, 
were covered, but others had seen them earlier 
in the day. The side, chapels were filled with 
devout worshipers. 

We admired Van der Voort's exquisitely 
carved wood pulpit. The figures which sup- 
port it stand in an enclosure, which has a 
stairway on each side. Above are carved 
medallions. The canopy is raised by cupids. 



[() From America to Russia. 

At the top, an angel leans down, 
blowing a trumpet. A dove hovers in the 
center. The branches of a tall tree reach as 
high as the canopy, and cover the sides of the 
stairways with their foliage. Peacocks and 
other birds disport themselves, at intervals. 

The wronght-iron well canopy of Quinten 
Massys, the blacksmith artist, stands near the 
Cathedral. 

The next morning a visit was made to St. 
Paul's. The Calvary, which is in a grotto- 
like garden, was visited first. Figures of the 
prophets stand on each side, surrounded by 
lovely flowers. An angel holds a shield, show- 
ing the heart, pierced hands and feet of our 
Lord. The Calvary is at the end of the 
garden. The figure of Christ on the cross is 
at the top. A skeleton lies below, while two 
angels, one on each side, point to the Saviour. 
Below is a "Pieta." There is also a cave which 
represents the Holy Sepulcher. The beautifully 
carved confessionals in this church are the 
work of Ouellyn. 'The Scourging of our 
Lord," by Rubens, was unveiled by the guide. 
On the opposite side is the "Council of Popes." 
The fifty legends of the rosary are on the left 
side, near the entrance. Above the doorway 
is the sculptured figure of the Virgin, holding 



Coaching: Antwerp to Worcester. 17 

a rosary in her hand. In a side chapel are 
carvings representing the different stations of 
the cross. 

We then went to the Musee Royal, which is 
filled with fine paintings of the Flemish school. 
There is an exquisite group of angels by Mem- 
ling, designed for an altar piece. They form 
a choir and are in a carved wood setting, which 
fills one whole side of the room. Here one 
sees Van Dyck's masterpiece, "The Cruci- 
fixion," Rubens' "Crucifixion of Christ Be- 
tween Two Thieves;" his "Dead Christ," his 
"Adoration of the Magi;" exquisite landscapes 
of the two Ruysdaels, portraits by Hals, true 
Holland types; "La Dame Hollandaise," a 
placid gentlewoman in broad white ruff and 
cap. There are characteristic peasant scenes 
by Brenghel, Teniers, Steen and Vinckboons, 
showing 1 the merrymakings of the kermesse.the 
rustic wedding, and scenes in the village inn. 

Rembrandt has two portraits. Van Eyck's 
"Saint Catherine" sits in front of a Gothic edi- 
fice, her voluminous skirts filling the whole 
foreground. There are fine examples of Mem- 
ling, Massys, Mostaert, de Vos, Van der Wey- 
den, Van Ostade, Van de Velde, Wynants, and 
others, too numerous to mention. 

In the afternoon there was a long drive 



1 8 From America to Russia. 

through the city. The arms of Antwerp, as 
I learned, are two hands. The monument, 
with the figure throwing- the hand, and the 
Flemish device "hand werpen," commemo- 
rates the legend of the giants, Antigonus, 
who cut off the hands of those who refused to 
pay the toll that he exacted. 

Another monument commemorates throw- 
ing off the Spanish yoke in 1706. The base 
shows the shackles thrown off by the hands 
sculptured above. In the center is a medal- 
lion of the first burgomaster, and, above that, 
a figure of victory with a torch. 

We saw the town hall, and, nearly opposite, 
the house in which Charles V. was born. At 
the top is a fine equestrian statue in gilt. 

We passed the Flemish and French theaters. 
The latter has busts of the French composers 
and dramatists. 

We went through lovely parks and past 
many quaint, interesting houses. At seven 
P. M. we drove to the boat, which was to take 
us across the Channel to Harwich. 

As we left it Antwerp seemed like a jewel 
in a lovely setting, framed by the sunset clouds 
of orange chrome and rose pink. On the op- 
posite shore the rushes waved high and green. 

The passage to England was a calm one. At 




Coaching -On the Road in Oxfordshire. 



Coaching: Antwerp to Worcester. 19 

six the next morning we landed, passed 
through the custom-house at Harwich, and at 
seven took the train for London. Eight o'clock 
found us at the Liverpool street station, where 
we had breakfast; then, taking the under- 
ground railway to Paddington station, we were 
soon en route for Oxford. 

After lunching at the King's Arms Hotel 
we mounted the coaches and began the trip for 
which so many of us had looked forward with 
unusual zest — the coaching tour of five 
days — and it was so satisfying and in- 
spiring that one regrets that a few pages 
only must suffice for its description. The 
day was perfect, cool, clear, invigorating. 
Mr. Franklin, Jr., whose father formerly man- 
aged the reins of the leaders, took his seat on 
the front box, the mourning band on his arm 
indicating that the soul of the good man who 
was not with us had gone to its eternal re- 
ward. To us who had never seen either 
there was no knowledge of the difference it 
occasioned, but to our Manager and some of 
his fellow-travelers it must have been a scene 
whose pleasure was mingled with profound 
sorrow. 

The steeds started to the crack of the whip 
and we bowled along over roads of flint as 



20 From America to Russia. 

smooth as a drum-head for miles and miles, 
and the first stop was at Blenheim, to see if we 
could enter the Duke of Marlborough's estate. 
I [appily we could not only enter, but we could 
do more; we had the unusual delight of join- 
ing an English party of lady school teachers 
and being shown through the palace itself. 

The gates of the castle are of massive gilt 
and bronze, and show the coat of arms on each 
side. The Duchess, it is said, may wear this, 
but not the crest. After entering the castle 
the guide drew our attention to the massive 
lock of the door, an exact copy of one in War- 
saw. In the gallery above are portraits of 
Queen Anne and different members of the 
Marlborough family. Each room has por- 
traits of the beautiful Duchesses. The third 
Duchess is especially lovely. The portrait of 
the present Duchess shows a piquant face, 
brunette in type, a slender figure in a flowing 
white robe, a wand in one hand. The last 
room shown had a magnificent organ. Here 
are busts of the present Duke and Duchess. In 
the chapel is the monument erected by the first 
Duchess in memory of her husband and two 
sons. 

Then followed a two hours' beautiful drive to 
Chipping Norton, where we left the coaches 



Coaching: Antwerp to Worcester. 21 

for the day, in order to go by rail to Worcester, 
a place we reached at half past seven. Eight 
o'clock found us comfortably settled at the 
Unicorn Hotel. 

The next morning we visited Worcester 
Cathedral. The organ was playing and the 
guide showed its three divisions, which look 
like three different instruments. The Cathe- 
dral as a whole was restored in 1857, as it was 
rapidly going to decay. Its shape is a double 
cross. Although ravaged by three fires, it al- 
ways rose, phoenix-like, from its ashes. The 
Norman and Perpendicular styles of architec- 
ture are the most marked. A stained glass 
window in the central tower represents "The 
Creation." The pulpit of the nave has 
sculptured scenes from the Bible; and here 
are also many interesting monuments. The 
combination of different marbles and alabaster 
is exquisite. There is a magnificent, richly 
carved screen; also thirty-seven unique stalls. 

King John is buried at Worcester, and the 
sculptured effigies of the numerous bishops 
who rest there are recumbent on stone slabs. 
They wear the episcopal robes. In the crypt 
we saw how the carved columns had once 
been covered with plaster, so that the lovely 



22 From America to Russia. 

designs were completely concealed, and, per- 
haps unsuspected until after the Restoration. 

The Unicorn was a most comfortable hotel, 
and we voted Worcester a place of sufficient 
interest to have remained longer. 

Lizzie J. Stoddard. 





Nvml 



in. 



COACHING: WORCESTER TO COVEN- 
TRY. 

WORCESTER was left with consider- 
able regret because of the intrinsic 
beauty of its Cathedral, especially the 
interior. It is thought by some good judges to 
have as beautiful an interior as any English 
Cathedral except Canterbury, and with a 
groined roof which no other can match. Not 
having seen Canterburv I cannot vouch for 
the accuracy of the full statement, but the gen- 
eral effect of the roof, windows, arches and 
pillars made a more entrancing impression 
upon me than either the Cathedrals of York, 
Ely, Lincoln or Peterborough. An hour's 
meditation every day beneath such a vaulting, 
where, amid great simplicity, there is the mag- 
nificence of true art, must be stimulating to 
any human soul. 



2 4 From America to Russia. 

The railway was taken at this point back to 
Chipping Norton, where the coaches were in 
readiness for the day's drive to Stratford. 

Some of us felt that this day's drive was in 
many respects the most delightful of any of the 
coaching tour. The views of the Malvern 
Hills in the distance, the unusual atmosphere 
for July, so clear and bracing-, the constantly 
changing panorama of views, at times extend- 
ing to twenty miles in either direction, made 
the day one long to be remembered. 

The noon-hour was spent at Shipston-on- 
Stour, at the "George Inn," where we had a 
royal good time, especially at the dinner. 

In the afternoon we passed what was voted 
to be "the handsomest lodge in England." It 
was only a small house, at the gateway lead- 
ing into a large estate, but it was embowered 
in vines and roses. Its shape was something 
like that of a beehive, but everything about it — 
the garden, the setting of woods, the lodge 
itself — made us all, as we first viewed it from 
a distance, almost clap hands with delight. Of 
course we dismounted and went to see it. 
There was a charming old lady in charge, who 
made no objection to the inspection of the 
premises, nor to our taking away handsfull of 
the beautiful roses. Each of our amateur 




The Lodge. 

The same which was voted by the H. P. T. party as the most beautiful 
they had seen in Entrland. Ten of the party appear in the picture. 

(Photo, by M. Estil ) 



Coaching: Worcester to Coventry. 25 

photographers had a snapshot at the lodge, 
and we will long carry the picture of it in the 
gallery of English memories. 

Stratford-on-Avon has been so often de- 
scribed that it seems only necessary to say 
that we did the usual things which every vis- 
itor to the home and haunts of Shakespeare 
must do. We visited his birthplace, the 
George W. Child's Fountain, New Place 
(where the immortal bard had written his plays 
and where he died), the Grammar School, 
Trinity Church, the Anne Hathaway cottage, 
Town Hall, and similar spots of local interest. 

"Here his first infant lays, sweet Shake- 
speare sung; 
Here the last accents faltered on his 
tongue." 

Some of the party boated by moonlight on 
the Avon, while others had a pleasant converse 
in the evening with the interesting landlady 
of the Red Horse Inn, who always [akes the 
best of care of her guests. The Red Horse 
dining-room, with its memories of Washing- 
ton Irving and William Winter, had been that 
very afternoon the place where Mrs. Mary 
Anderson de Navarro had lunched, and our 
Mrs. D. was fortunate enough to be given 
"William Winter's room" for the night. Prob- 



26 From America to Russia. 

ably all of us slept in beds which had been 
occupied at one time and another by some of 
the greatest men and women in England, for 
the Red Horse dates back as a hostelry to a 
fairly ancient period, and the present proprie- 
tor, Mr. Shelbourne, seems specially gratified 
to see his American friends, of whom he has a 
large and increasing number. I am always 
fond of this hotel, especially because of its 
quaint engravings and comfortable rooms. 

Next day we were off for Warwick, not by 
the direct road, but by way of Hampton Lucy. 
Here we temporarily lost our way, but had 
in consequence an interesting experience with 
some school-children. The fact was we did 
not want to go to Hampton Lucy village, but 
to Charlecote Park, in its vicinity. We prob- 
ably passed on the way the location of the 
house where Shakespeare's good friends, John 
and William Combe, resided, and where the 
poet must have spent many pleasant hours. 
When we did reach the park, we found it to be 
an estate which must have been glorious in its 
day, but was now chiefly beautiful because of 
its enormous old trees and wide stretches of 
fields, and it is still, as in olden days, full of 
domesticated deer. 

It was in this park where it is said Shake- 




Starting from the Red Horse Inn. 

This hotel is the one in Stratford on-Avon, long famous through the 
writings of Washington Irving, William Winter and others. The picture 
) (presents the first coach of the H. P. T. party about to start out for 
Charletote Park, Warwick. Kenilworth and Coventry. 

(Photo, bp M. Estil.) 



Coaching: Worcester to Coventry. 27 

speare engaged in stealing deer from its owner, 
Sir Thomas Lucy. For this he was prose- 
cuted, and, it is recorded, took his revenge by 
writing a caustic ballad now lost, probably his 
first essay in poetry. Be this as it may, 
Shakespeare knew every nook and corner of 
these woods, and when he wrote the "Merry- 
Wives of Windsor," and possibly had Sir 
Thomas in mind in his character of Justice 
Shallow, he had at least stored up in memory 
beautiful images of days gone by when Charle- 
cote Park was jocund with voices of youth 
and when England was more "merrie" with 
revelries and mischief-making than it has ever 
been since. 

Charlecote House was built in 1558. It 
forms three sides of a quadrangle; is not par- 
ticularly handsome nor imposing, though 
strictly Elizabethan and with various orna- 
mental features which excite one's attention. 
If it were more closely shut in amid the old 
gnarled oaks and beeches, its effect would be 
finer, but it is rather out in the open and lacks 
the real picturesqueness of some other 
English halls. We were charged a fee for the 
privilege of passing through this place, a re- 
minder to us that the present lords of England 
are not so wealthy that they can afford to open 



28 From America to Russia. 

their estates to passersby without a contribu- 
tion box. 

At Warwick the horses were put out at the 
Warwick Arms, a hotel not at all satisfac- 
tory in its charges, though attractive within, 
and then a visit was made to the Beauchamp 
Chapel, to see the tomb of Dudley, Earl of 
Leicester, and the Earl of Warwick. Warwick 
Castle, the finest of its type in England, we 
discovered, to our regret, could not be visited, 
because the premiers of the various English 
colonies, who were on a visit to London to at- 
tend the Queen's Jubilee, had been invited this 
day by the Earl of Warwick to a garden party 
within his grounds. As we drove by the gate 
of the castle after luncheon, on our way to 
Kenilworth, we saw the nobility entering, 
watched by hundreds of English people who 
lined the way. 

Erom Warwick to Leamington is a short 
two miles. Leamington looked fresh, hand- 
some and thoroughly attractive for a summer 
residence. We passed directly through, 
stopping only five minutes to taste the mineral 
waters from one of the springs, and then took 
that remarkably beautiful road from Leaming- 
ton to Coventry, by the way of Kenilworth, 
which has been so often described as "the 



Coaching: Worcester to Coventry. 29 

prettiest drive in England." I do not altogether 
agree with this statement, but as the road is 
perfectly level, and hard and smooth as a 
floor, the country on each side fertile, and as 
almost the entire distance the way is lined with 
a row of stately limes and elms, I admit it 
would be very difficult to find other roads 
more charming. 

Just outside of Warwick is Guy's Cliff, of 
considerable note, but though I have passed 
this spot a number of times, have never left 
the road and driven in to see it. This 
omission of duty I hope some day to supply. 

At Kenilworth the same quiet ruins, so cov- 
ered with dense ivy that from any point of 
view they are entrancing, still rest on the little 
hill outside of the town. Here the Earl of 
Leicester so royally entertained Queen Eliza- 
beth that even Sir Walter Scott's pen paused 
to take time to irradiate the event with a pro- 
longed description of its glories. It is one of 
the most lovely places in England for a picnic, 
or for a visit on a bright afternoon. Perhaps 
we spent two hours strolling about the ruins 
and upon the walls, and reclining about the 
grass, with our minds turned back to the days 
of chivalry. It was no difficult task to re- 
people the place with knights and courtiers 



30 From America to Russia. 

and bishops, and all the ladies of the court of 
Elizabeth, who trooped hither in coaches and 
on horseback to enjoy the merry dinners of 
the favorite Earl. 

I see now the incoming- pageant on that me- 
morable 9th of July, 1575! The Queen came, 
attended by thirty-one barons, besides all her 
ladies of court and four hundred servants. Six 
trumpeters "clad in long garments of sylk," 
to quote from the chronicler of the time, "who 
stood upon the wall of the gate, with their 
silvery trumpets of five foot long, sounded a 
tune of welcome." There were floating 
islands, water nymphs and genii, poets to read 
poetry and players to act plays, tilts, tourna- 
ments, deer hunts, bear and bull-bating, Italian 
rope-dancers, bridal ceremonies, merry danc- 
ing and "tables loaded with sumptuous cheer." 
I fancy that young Will Shakespeare, with the 
other boys of the vicinity, was attracted to the 
spot and at least peered through the gate to see 
these royal puppets move. 

Seven miles northeast of Kenilworth lies 
Coventry. When we neared the latter place 
there was the first appearance of rain since we 
arrived in England. In the west and north- 
west the clouds were heavy and there came 
lightning and thunder. There were gusts of 



Coaching: Worcester to Coventry. 31 

wind, with flying dust, and presently over 
fields the rains descended, and came nearer 
and nearer. But it kept away from over 
head. England was in need of rain and we 
were pleased that at least toward Worcester- 
shire some farmers were benefited by the 
shower, but Coventry remained dry as a 
bone. We were landed at the King's Head 
Hotel without a drop upon us, and after the 
evening meal had a ten miles' tramway 
journey through and out of the city to Bed- 
worth and return, and then went to bed with 
the image of Peeping Tom peering from above 
our windows. 

A. V. D. HONEYMAN. 




IV. 
COACHING: COVENTRY TO OXFORD. 

WE reached the King's Head Hotel, 
Coventry, at five o'clock, and first 
saw the bust of "Peeping Tom" 
peering from an adjoining window. He was 
a tailor who, according to the legend, was 
struck blind while looking at Lady Godiva as 
she rode through the city. Her husband, 
Leofric, imposed very heavy taxes on the peo- 
ple, and as there was but one condition on 
which he would remit them, she rode through 
the city covered only by her long hair. 

I soon went to St. Michael's, a most inter- 
esting old church. Two of its windows are 
five hundred years old. They were shattered 
by a cannon ball when Cromwell tried to blow 
up the church, but have been restored. The 
fragments are leaded together so that the tiny 



Coaching: Coventry to Oxford. 33 

pieces look like a veritable mosaic. The ex- 
terior is beautiful. A fine figure of a crusader 
stands high up in one of the niches on the 
left hand side. The carved roses and angels 
above the lower windows are exquisite. 

Opposite is St. Mary's Guildhall, where 
Mary, Queen of Scots, was imprisoned for 
nine months. Her prison is behind the altar, 
and is reached by a winding flight of worn 
stone steps. It is lighted by two small win- 
dows. The adjoining room has a litter of 
books and a large picture of Bacchus and 
Ariadne. 

Just before entering the Hall one sees a 
large, rudely carved statue, a relic of the 
Queen's crosses. The Hall, which is built of 
oak, is filled with portraits of Queen Mary, 
Queen Caroline, and the different Georges. A 
wonderful piece of tapestry covers one end of 
the room. 

A small room adjoining contains the statue 
of Godiva, a lovely nude figure with hair flow- 
ing below her knees. A painting in a room 
adjoining the prison represents her on horse- 
back, according to tradition. An under- 
ground room contains the charters and seals 
of the Kings of England. 

Before leaving Coventry a visit was made to 



34 From America to Russia. 

the Old Women's Home. We entered a court, 
and on each side were the carved walls of a 
quaint building dating back five hundred 
years. There is a lovely garden at the end of 
the court. Each old lady has a tiny suite of 
rooms, nicely furnished, clean and bright, and 
filled with souvenirs, which they were eager to 
exhibit. All seemed contented and happy. 
As we passed out we were each given a few 
flowers from the garden. 

A few hours later we left the coach to visit 
Stoneleigh Abbey, the seat of Lord Leigh. We 
drove through a long, rambling lane, bordered 
on each side with fine old trees. On entering 
we had a glimpse of the cloisters, which have 
been restored. A fine portrait of the present 
Lord Leigh hangs above the mantel in one 
room. It represents him as he was in his 
prime, thirty-five years ago. The portrait of 
his wife, as a young girl, hangs in the dining- 
room. There are many interesting portraits 
in the corridors. The chapel, where the fami- 
ly have private worship, contains a beautiful 
altar painting. In the gallery above is a mar- 
ble medallion of the Virgin, clasping the head 
of Christ (Canova's). Another room contains 
a copy of Durer's "Christ/ and an original 
painting near it. 




Coaching: Between Kenilworth and Coventry. 

On the right is an English forest ; on the left, the usual hawthorne 
hedgerow and the trees of an estate. Between the road proper and the 
hedge will be seen, first, the bridal path, and, second, a wider foot- 
path. These are completely-built, model public roads, the like of 
which we do not yet have in America {Photo, by M. Estil.) 



Coaching: Coventry to Oxford. 35 

There is a Van Dyck portrait of Charles I., 
which has been restored. It was once sent 
away for repairs, when the discovery was made 
that the original canvas had been painted over. 
Another room had an exquisitely carved ceil- 
ing. All the chairs were delicately embroid- 
ered or painted. His lordship was absent and 
therefore we were permitted, through the cour- 
tesy of his intelligent housekeeper, to see the 
mansion. 

We then drove to Warwick Castle, the first 
glimpse being that of its ivy-clad towers. Reach- 
ing there, after a luncheon at the Woolpack 
Inn, we passed on foot through a walled 
path, banked on each side with ivy and ferns. 
There are noble trees the whole distance. We 
climbed Guy's Tower, with its two hundred 
and fifty spiral, stone steps. From the top 
we could see the winding course of the Avon, 
which runs beside the Castle, and the three 
counties of Worcestershire, Oxfordshire and 
Gloucestershire. Gorgeous peacocks walked 
on the lawn. The flower beds near the green- 
house have each a red maltese cross in the 
center. From the garden there is a fine view 
of two magnificent Lebanon cedars; none of 
us saw finer in all our journeying*. 

Hadrian's vase stands on a broad pedestal 



36 From America to Russia. 

in the center of the greenhouse. It was 
found at Hadrian's villa, near Rome. There 
are acanthus leaves around the base; vine 
tendrils form the handles; and their branches 
and fruit twine about the vase. On one side 
are satyrs with a lion skin spread below them; 
on the other is a beautiful head in profile be- 
tween two satyrs. 

On entering the Castle, Cromwell's death 
mask was one of the first objects seen. The 
guide remarked that as the Earl of Warwick- 
had been on good terms with Cromwell, he 
had kept his castle. A corridor, lined with 
armour and weapons, also contains portions of 
Cromwell's armor. 

Raphael's "Assumption" hangs over the 
mantel in the Red Drawing Room. Here, 
also, is an exquisite table, inlaid with lapis 
lazuli, once the property of Marie Antoinette. 

The Gilt Drawing Room has' Rubens' 
"Loyale" over the mantel. The Cedar Room 
is filled with Van Dycks. The portraits of 
the Brignolia family, mother and child, came 
from Genoa. The portrait of Nell Gwynne, 
above the doorway, is by Lely. Queen Anne's 
room has her portrait by Kneller, above the 
mantel. The massive bed is hung with 
crimson velvet and e^old, and there is a richly 



Coaching: Coventry to Oxford. 37 

embroidered coverlet. Her trunk, a tiny one 
with brass initials, is in this room. 

A portrait of Henry VII I., by Holbein, 
hangs over the mantel in the Countess's 
boudoir. The same room contains his portrait 
"when a good little boy," as the guide faceti- 
ously observed. Here are also Holbein's 
portraits of Anne and Mary Boleyn. 

The walls of the Oak Room are about eight 
feet thick. This forms wide recesses for the 
windows, and the arch above each is carved 
in vines and flowers. The walls of the Ban- 
queting Hall are hung with magnificent ant- 
lers. One side is filled with suits of armor. 
Oliver Cromwell's helmet hangs here, and 
Richard Neville's mace. 

In Beauchamp Chapel, at Warwick, we saw 
the tomb of the first Earl of Warwick, a re- 
cumbent, bronze-gilt figure; also the tomb of 
the wicked Earl of Leicester and his third 
wife, Letitia, and that of their child, whom the 
Earl caused to be murdered, because of his de- 
formity. Opposite is the tomb of his brother, 
the Earl of Dudley, called the "Good Earl." 

We went into the little oratory up the stone 
steps, worn smooth by the feet of penitents, 
and looked at the exquisite roof carvings, each 
fan being a separate stone. In the church 



38 From America to Russia. 

we also saw the recumbent figures of the first 
Earl and his wife, he wearing the garb of a 
crusader. 

Next came the final day's coaching to Ox- 
ford, and a royal day it was. Every day of 
the drive had been perfect and the last no less 
so than the others. And now we were to say 
farewell to the lovely English meadows, fields 
of poppies, the fragrant rows of lindens, the 
oaks, elms and larches, the willows which 
bordered the Avon, and the quaint, pictur- 
esque stone cottages covered with ivy. We 
were to leave the comfortable English inns. 
The fierce and lobster-like "Red Lion" of 
Banbury was to be a thing of the past. 

A sign hanging in front of one of the last 
inns passed showed a buxom young woman 
in a blue and yellow costume. With shield 
in one hand, trident in the other, she leaned her 
head against the English flag, planted her 
sandaled feet firmly on the sand, and looked 
on the expanse of indigo blue water as though 
she defied anyone to dispute the right of 
Britannia to rule the seas. This was our last 
stop for the thirsty ones until we entered Ox- 
ford, when of a sudden came a mild rain, which 
somewhat, but onlv slightly, interfered with a 
long ride tnrougn the "city of colleges." 



Coaching: Coventry to Oxford. 39 

Here the members of former H. P. T. parties 
visited the grave and paid their respects to the 
memory of good William Franklin, the former 
owner of our coaches and horses; the man who, 
as our Manager said, " had conducted them 
over hundreds of miles of rural England, with- 
out an error of judgment, or a flaw perceptible 
in his sweet and kindly temper"; and they 
grieved that he was no more, while remember- 
ing that "the memory of the just is blessed." 
Lizzie J. Stoddard. 




V. 
ENGLAND TO NORWAY. 

ON arriving a<t the Liverpool street sta- 
tion in London bound for Norway, 
the H. P. T. party was reinforced by 
the addition of five more members, but we 
were extremely sorry to lose one, the Rev. Mr. 
Bennett. Total number now, twenty-five. 

We left London for Lincoln at five-thirty, 
and rode through a delightful country full of 
lovely fields of thrifty grain. The landscape 
in many places is flat, reminding one strongly 
of Holland. The little stations on the way 
where the train stopped were exceedingly 
pretty, and at one we saw a quantity of large 
baskets filled with delicious looking straw- 
berries. There was a magnificent sunset, the 
sun being a brilliant red and just above there 
was a dark cloud that gradually sank over it 
and was tinged witli the gorgeous hue. 



England to Norway. 41 

Several windmills appeared on onr way to 
Lincoln, and they always add materially to the 
beauty of the scenery. 

When we arrived at the White Hart Hotel, 
in Lincoln, we were dusty, and were glad to 
reach such a home-like place. Of course we 
received a warm welcome from Miss Barton, 
the landlady, who knew many of the party 
personally and was ready to greet with special 
smiles those of us who had been there before. 
It was refreshing to see her bright face again. 
She served us a delicious dinner, but as we had 
charming meals when we were here before it 
was no better than was expected. There was 
plenty of fruit and the table was beautifully 
arranged, as it was two years ago. Soon after 
arrival we heard the rich and measured tones 
of a bell striking the hour of ten; this was un- 
doubtedly "Big Tom." Some of us went out 
to see what we could of the Cathedral in 
the night, but it was too dark to see it to good 
advantage. 

A rainy morning next day, but in spite of the 
rain we all went sight-seeing, and first to the 
Cathedral. Lincoln Cathedral was built in 
1074, but what with fire and earthquake it has 
undergone many changes since. It is by no 
means rich in monuments, the sepulchral 



4 2 l : roui America to R 



ussia. 



brasses, of which it contained a large number, 
having been taken up by Parliamentary 
soldiers in 1644. There are, however, several 
monuments left commemorating the death of 
noted individuals. The entire length of the 
Cathedral is 481 feet, the nave being 215 feet 
long and with the aisle 80 feet wide; the in- 
terior area of the entire building being 57,200 
square feet. The height of the central tower 
is 271 feet and the height of each of the west- 
ern towers 206 feet. One can get an idea of 
the size of the Cathedral from these dimen- 
sions. The bell known as "Great Tom of 
Lincoln" hangs in the central tower. It was 
recast in 1835, weighs over five tons, is 6 feet 
high and 21 feet in circumference at its base. 

Lincoln is a good-sized city having a popu- 
lation of 40,000, and has many quaint sights 
described in other volumes of this series, so I 
will not detain the reader here further. 

On our way from Lincoln to Hull, where we 
are to take the steamer for Bergen, we passed 
a great many towns and a large number of 
cattle grazing. Here again we saw wind- 
mills, but not as many as we counted later in 
our journey from Berlin to Amsterdam. Pretty 
canals and lovely winding rivers diversified the 
scenery. We stopped at Dorchester, a quaint 




Lincoln Cathedral— West Front. 

Lincoln has a population of 40,000, and on a hill in its centre is located 
tile famous Cathedral, founded in the Eleventh Century; a structure 

crystallized in mid-air by the wand of a magician, dripping- solid 
splendor on every side." 



England to Norzvay. 43 

old town, and had lunch and then rolled on 
some distance farther to beautiful Hull, a sea- 
port town on the North Sea. We wished to 
stay here for at least one day that we might 
have a better view of it. 

Of the ecclesiastical edifices at Hull the most 
notable are the Church of the Holy Trinity, a 
beautiful, ornate, Gothic structure, the transept 
of which is the oldest English brick building 
in the country; and St. Mary's Church, Low- 
gate, one-half of which was removed to make 
room for the mansion-house of Henry VIII. , 
who occasionally resided here. The most 
important educational establishments are the 
Hull Grammar School, and Trinity House 
School where 36 boys receive a nautical edu- 
cation. An equestrian statue of William III. 
stands in the market place and a statue of Wil- 
berforce, who was born in 1759. A new west 
dock which greatly increases the accommoda- 
tion for shipping was opened in 1869. A town 
hall and a new exchange were opened in 1866. 
Hull has a population of 160,000. 

On our arrival in Hull we took 'busses to go 
to the wharf, where we embarked in a tender 
for the steamer the "Eldorado." The steamer 
proved to be well appointed and very com- 
fortable. 



44 From America to Russia. 

That night and next day we were on the 
North Sea on- our way to Bergen. The sea 
was a little rough next morning and there were 
few ladies out to breakfast. On the whole 
our sail proved a delightful one and I enjoyed 
it to the full. The sunset at night was of the 
same gorgeous colors which it was when we 
were on our way to Hull. Who can ever tire 
of looking at a grand sunset? Yet let me say 
here that when I was on the Sound steamer, on 
my way home to New London, Connecticut, 
I saw a more beautiful sunset than any I ob- 
served on the other side, the clouds being the 
most magnificent shades of red, purple and 
olive-green. 

To go back to the North Sea, and to watch- 
ing the sun go down. It would pass under a 
dark cloud and I would lose sight of it for 
awhile. Then the clouds would break, the 
edges being tinged with a gorgeous shade of 
red, and soon the sun would appear again in 
another place, looking as though it were burst- 
ing its way through. 

Some of the party sat up until we reached 
Stavanger, on the Norwegian coast, and went 
on shore at 2 o'clock in the morning and took 
a ride about the city. All of us were up 
watching the lights along the coast *till nearly 



England to Norivay. 45 

midnight. The population of Stavanger is 
25,000, and it is the oldest town in Norway, 
dating from the eighth or ninth century. 

Next morning was clear and beautiful. We 
were passing the fjords and there on the shore 
here and there were trees and shrubs. Occa- 
sionally we saw little plateaus near the shore 
with a few houses on them. Someone said 
that the scenery reminded him of Alaska. 
Here were mountains with patches of snow on 
them, making them look very cold. Now we 
were passing the fjords and there on the shore 
were houses, plainly built, and here a pretty 
church. It was delightful to sit and watch 
the shore as we passed by, taking note of the 
queer homes of the people. In the distance 
were more snow-capped peaks; here was a 
light-house and a flag-station and there was a 
swing showing that the children were amused 
in about the same way all over the world. We 
saw near us eight little fishing boats, and 
farther on, not far from shore, pretty houses 
and trees, and once a manufactory. Here 
was a little field of grain growing (we had not 
seen one for some time) and high up on the 
slope of the mountain were cattle grazing. In 
a cosy, sheltered nook on the other side of the 
hill were some fishermen's houses and off there 



46 From America to Russia. 

was a vessel anchored in the tiny harbor. 
Farther on was a light-house. And so the 
procession of sights passed by. 

Just before reaching Bergen, opposite to the 
city as though to protect it, is a large fortifica- 
tion standing on top of a high mountain with 
mounted guns and men working upon it. As 
we approached Bergen we saw what appeared 
to be a little city nestled at the foot of a long 
chain of hills. It soon grew to be a large one, 
the most picturesque in its surroundings of any 
we saw in Norway. 

The "Smeby Hotel" proved comfortable 
and wholly satisfactory. Mr. Smeby, Sr., had 
been to the World's Fair and liked to have a 
party of Americans stay with him. His son 
was the manager, and a jolly laugh and quick 
attention to the wants of his guests proved 
both his good heartedness and his efficiency. 

At Bergen the courier whom the Manager 
had engaged to assislt him upon the Continent 
appeared, and at once gained our kindly inter- 
est by his pleasant face and easy manners, and 
the knowledge he imparted to us that he had 
been wounded in the War of the Rebellion in 
America. Captain H. C. Nielson received 
his title, however, not in the army, but because 
he subsequently commanded a vessel which is 



England to Norway. 47 

at the bottom of the Atlantic. It seems that 
he came to America when about nineteen years 
of age to earn a livelihood, and soon after the 
war broke out enlisted. He was in the Grant 
campaign. At the close of the war he went to 
sea and repeatedly visited our country in Nor- 
wegian vessels. One which he commanded 
went down in a terrific storm off the coast of 
South America. He, with a few others, clung 
to the mast for a few days and were then taken 
off and saved, since which he has had no de- 
sire to continue life on the raging deep. He 
proved to be a competent interpreter and help- 
ful guide. 

In the afternoon we took a long drive and 
obtained an excellent idea of what Bergen, 
which was founded in 1070, is like. It is a 
beautiful city and a large one and the grand 
mountain scenery around it reminded me of 
Switzerland. The houses are built on a side 
hill, and I wonder they are not blown over in 
a heavy gale. High up above us one sees 
horses and carriages and that, too, reminded 
one of the way we travel in Switzerland. On 
our drive we went up the steep mountain side 
to see the old Viking mound and church, both 
about eight hundred years old, and the latter 
a curious specimen of architecture, reminding 



48 From America to Russia. 

us of the pictures of the Chinese pagodas. Next 
to the capital, Bergen is the largest and most 
important town in Norway, having a popula- 
tion of 50,000. It is the center of the Nor- 
wegian fishing industry and fish export trade, 
as well as the principal station of the commer- 
cial steam fleet, and, owing to its many histor- 
ical associations, it is generally considered to 
be one of the most interesting towns of north- 
ern Europe. It stands in the center of an am- 
phitheater formed by seven surrounding moun- 
tains as we could see when we were on this de- 
lightful drive. 

The dinner at Smeby's the first day was: 

Soup. 

Salmon, potatoes, cauliflower and caper sauce. 

Chicken, potatoes, potato croquettes. 

Cherries, plums and strawberries spiced. 

Princess pudding with raspberry sauce. 

Strawberries with sugar and cream. 

And when we adjourned to the next room 
all were served with delicious coffee by a Nor- 
wegian maid in her peasant costume. On the 
edge of the bread plate at table was printed 
"Giv os I dag Yost Daglige Brod" (Give us 
this day our daily bread.) 

After dinner the whole party went by elec- 
tric tram to the cemetery to see the grave of 



England to Norway. 49 

Ole Bull. We found the burial place, and a 
large urn in bronze marked the spot, with only 
"Ole Bull" engraved on the body of the urn, 
and on the standard "Died in 1880." The 
mound on which the urn stood was overgrown 
with ivy, roses and forget-me-nots. One of 
our ladies, who had heard Ole Bull play, laid 
a bouquet of wild flowers on his grave as a 
tribute to his memory. 

Ten o'clock in the evening and we found we 
could write by the window in our room, and 
we had witnessed another magnificent sunset. 

Next day was warm and delightful. We 
walked about the city, taking a peep into the 
stores where were all sorts of beautiful and 
curious things for sale — the furs and stuffed 
animals marvelously fine. We visited the 
markets and were charmed by their novelty. I 
must give our second day's dinner which con- 
sisted of: 

Vegetable Soup. 

Salmon trout with baked potatoes. 

Boiled potatoes with chopped parsley and drawn 

butter. 
Chicken ; veal rolled in tomato and crumbs and 
fried with brown gravy. 
Queen's pudding. 
Strawberries with sugar and whipped cream. 



5o 



From America to Russia. 



Clearly Mr. Smeby does not allow his guests 
to starve. 

On leaving Bergen we had a novel exper- 
ience. We left the hotel, went down a flight 
of stone steps, entered a row-boat, crossed the 
harbor, ascended another flight of stone steps 
and there took the fine steamer "Neptun" for 
our trip up the fjords. 

Ellen Co it. 





The Stearr.ship " Neptun." 

Lying by the dock at Bergen. This steamer makes various trips dur- 
iny'the summer to the North Cape, but after August I goes only be- 
tween Bergen and Trondhjem. It took the H. P. T. party on the latter 
voyage, a distance of 400 miles. 



VI. 



ALONG THE NORWEGIAN COAST. 



WE left Bergen, Friday, July 23, 1897, 
about 11 P. M., favorably impressed 
with the city and with Smeby's Hotel, 
where we had been bountifully enter- 
tained. Boarding the good ship "Nep- 
tun" (Neptune) we steamed east of north 
along the coast of Norway, bound for Trond- 
hjem, 398 miles. Looking at the map one 
would suppose our way would be chiefly 
through the open sea, but such is not the case. 
The course is principally through fjords and 
among islands, which for the most part con- 
stitute the western border of this country. 
Once during the entire route we were outside 
for about two hours, and again about an hour. 
Our accommodations and meals on board 
were excellent; and these, with fine weather, 



5 2 From America to Russia. 

beautiful scenery, stirring incidents and last, 
but not least, pleasant and congenial company, 
made the trip most delightful. The fjords 
and inlets, the islands and mainland present an 
almost endless variety of beauty and loveliness. 
Sometimes, too, a mist like a thin veil hung 
lightly over the valleys and again rose to the 
hill tops while we gazed in admiration. No 
description, however, can do justice to such 
scenery. The eye and heart alone can realize 
it. 

For purposes of cultivation the contour of 
the land on either side improved northward; 
and on both sides, chiefly on the east, were 
small farm houses with a limited extent of 
tilled land attached. The crops were rye, 
barley, oats and potatoes. No wheat is raised 
so far north in either Norway or Sweden, and 
only a small quantity in the southern parts; 
and no maize in the two kingdoms. And just 
here, too, it may be stated that from the time 
the writer left New York, June 30, until he 
boarded the St. Paul at Southampton, Septem- 
ber 4, he saw no Indian corn or meal in any 
form whatever, except a few plants grown for 
ornament in flower beds at railroad stations 
and elsewhere; and occasionally in Russia 
and Germany raised broadcast for fodder. On 




£1 



•It 

p 



see 
c-e 

gee 



"2 a 
e « 



C e8 a 






CI M- 



Along the Norwegian Coast. 53 

the St. Paul we got both roasting ears and corn 
muffins. 

The "Neptun" landed at Aalesund (popu- 
lation 8,000), and Christiansund (population 
10,000) to put off and receive passengers and 
freight. Intermediate these cities lies Molde 
(population 1,800), a summer resort beautifully 
situated on an extensive and picturesque fjord. 
Here we arrived on Saturday afternoon and 
found at anchor the German Emperor's yacht, 
Hohenzollern, with His Majesty on board. We 
did not see him, but met officers and seamen of 
his vessel on the streets, having the name of 
the ship on their caps. The Hohenzollern is 
a beautiful model and was painted entirely 
white. The Emperor was making a pleasure 
cruise through the fjords with the German 
war cruiser Gefion acting as consort. The 
latter had already gone northward preceding 
the Hohenzollern, and we found her in the 
harbor at Trondhjem on our arrival there. She 
was also ' 2 model and painted white. 

We visite 1 pretty church, seated upon an 
eminence in Mo-lde, to see a celebrated picture, 
an altar-piece "The Resurrection," represent- 
ing the angel sitting upon the vacant tomb, 
pointing heavenv rds, and the women fright- 



54 From America to Russia. 

ened and wondering. It is certainly artistic, 
lovely and touching. 

From here also< are seen the grand peaks of 
the Alps of the Romsdal and the towering top 
of the Romsdalhorn, higher than Vesuvius. 

Proceeding on our route we passed fishing 
stations with moored boats and fishermen's 
huts, and reached Trondhjem on Sunday morn- 
ing; and beside the Gefion found also here the 
American S. S. Ohio on her return from the 
North Cape with a large party. We gave 
them as we passed a hearty salute with our 
stars and stripes (which we carried every- 
where) and received a similar greeting in re- 
turn. We drove at once to the Britannia 
Hotel, and can give it a good name — commo- 
dious and well kept. 

We attended divine services at the Cathe- 
dral, and though we did not understand a 
word of the ritual or sermon — the music, how- 
ever, was excellent — we were deeply moved 
in worshipping with these earnest and devout 
people. The Cathedral is said to be the finest 
in the three Scandinavian kingdoms — Nor- 
way, Sweden and Denmark — and contains a 
replica of Thorwaldsen's great statue of Christ, 
presented by the artist himself. 

The national church is Episcopal Lutheran, 




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Along the Norwegian Coast. 55 

and almost the entire population of about 
2,000,000 are members, a few thousand only 
being outside the fold. 

Trondhjem is a flourishing city of about 25,- 
000 inhabitants, in latitude 63 26' N., long. 
io° 33' E.; is modern in appearance, with wide 
streets and pavements, though having omnibus 
lines only — no street railways. It was founded, 
however, over 900 years ago by King Olaf 
Tryggvesson and then named Nidaros, being 
situated on the river Nid at its mouth. Here 
this king, known as Olaf I., set up and main- 
tained a splendid court. The nation was then 
pagan, worshipping Odin and Thor, but Olaf 
had before his accession to the throne traveled 
extensively in Europe and England, and had 
imbibed Christianity, and had, moreover, mar- 
ried a sturdy and energetic English or Irish 
Christian woman; and at once with his whole 
power he set about the overthrow of paganism 
and the establishment of the Christian re- 
ligion. He traversed the entire coast person- 
ally, destroying idols and baptising the prom- 
inent people. The measures employed were 
not always faultless as we now view things, 
but he and his two successors thoroughly ac- 
complished their purpose, not only in this but 
also in cementing the divers provinces of Nor- 



56 From America to Russia. 

way into a united and homogeneous kingdom 
with Trondhjem as its capital. 

As all this occurred several centuries prior 
to the Reformation the new religion was, of 
course, Roman Catholic, and the Pope subse- 
quently created here an Archiepiscopal See, 
making- Trondhjem and its Cathedral the 
center and seat of power, and invested the 
Archbishop with authority over all Norway 
and its colonies, Iceland, the Orkneys and the 
Faroe islands. These Archbishops (succes- 
sively) surrounded themselves with able and 
crafty officials, maintained great pomp and 
splendor, and gradually encroached not only 
on the rights of the people but also of the 
crown, almost ousting from power the Kings 
themselves. And so harrassing and exasper- 
ating did these encroachments finally become 
that the Reformation, when it came about, was 
gladly received and embraced by both King 
and people, and (not without struggles with 
the hierarchy), Lutheranism supplanted 
Romanism, and became and remains the na- 
tional religion. 

Both the spoken and written language is the 
Danish, with which kingdom Norway was 
connected, though independent, from about 
1380 to 1814, A. D. 



Along the Norwegian Coast. .57 

Norway and Sweden though having the 
same King, the same representatives at foreign 
courts and same foreign policy are, in all other 
respects, wholly separate and independent. 
Each has its own constitution, legislature, laws, 
taxes, tariffs, coat of arms, flags, etc.; and all 
goods, merchandise, baggage, etc., passing from 
one country into the other are examined by 
custom officers and must pay the duties im- 
posed. 

Trondhjem continued for centuries the 
capital, and the Kings are still crowned in the 
Cathedral there as Kings of Norway, and the 
royal palace is maintained. The precise date of 
the founding of the city is not known, but it was 
A. D. 996 or 997, and the 900th anniversary of 
the event was celebrated there July 18, a week 
before our arrival, because that date happened 
to be an anniversary (24th) of the crowning- 
there of the present King, Oscar II., and it also 
suited him to be present at that time. There 
is a growing party in Norway which advocates 
entire separation from Sweden under a new 
King, and they were preparing to celebrate 
the founding on July 29, three days after our 
departure. 

The more we saw of the Norwegians the 
more we were persuaded that they are from 



58. From America to Russia. 

the same stock as ourselves; are more like 
Americans than any other nation, even the 
English. Our preconceived impressions re- 
garding Swedes and Norwegians were wholly 
reversed, the latter being the superior race. 
Throughout the country, too, we observed that 
their farm houses, barns, etc., are much better 
in every respect than in Sweden. The popu- 
lation indeed is chiefly rural, a very small per 
cent living in towns, and for the most part they 
own their farms and are not mere tenants. 
Schools are free and attendance, religious 
teaching and study of the English language 
obligatory. For generations also many of 
their young men have attended the German 
universities. So the diffusion of education has 
been general, and this with their religious 
training has implanted an independent intel- 
ligence and a stability and elevation of char- 
acter which distinguishes them above the 
other races of Europe. 

The climate of Trondhjem is good, being 
tempered and moderated by the sea, the wide 
and deep fjords and inlets, and the gulf stream 
on the coast. Its exports are chiefly salmon, 
cod, herring, oil and timber; and its imports 
textiles, hardware, groceries and American 
wheat and flour. 







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Along the Norwegian Coast. 59 

Of course we drove out to the celebrated 
Lerfos waterfalls — about five miles — and were 
delighted with their beauty and grandeur; and 
at the restaurant there we ate wild strawberries 
on July 26. The road was good, macadamed, 
and the scenery along the route fine. Some 
of our party were from Maine and they and 
others who had seen the Kennebec river united 
in pronouncing the two valleys exactly similar. 
On the roadside, at the foot of a small hill, 
stood a large guide board with this inscription 
in three languages, Danish, German and Eng- 
lish, "Travelers are requested to walk up hill 
to spare the horses." We thought it unnec- 
essary to comply. In this valley we saw new 
mown hay cured in a way quite new to us. A 
high fence of posts and rails or wire is built in 
the field and the hay is hung on the rails or 
wires, beginning at the bottom and continued 
to the top. Where there happens to be a 
fence along the roadside it is utilized in same 
manner. 

Summing up some of the results of my ob- 
servations during this delightful tour I con- 
clude that Americans are better housed, 
clothed, fed and educated than any other peo- 
ple on earth. Nowhere are farm and country 
homes comparable with ours, nor any- 
where else such an air of prosperity and hap- 



60 From America to Russia. 

piness throughout the laud. It has always 
seemed unaccountable to me how Europe 
could withdraw from work those immense 
armies and maintain and support these idlers 
and bear enormous burdens of taxation with- 
out collapse. The solution seems to be the 
severe and pinching economy everywhere 
practiced, and the fact that all the women and 
children are compelled to labor and often even 
the cows and dogs. In one field in Russia we 
saw fifteen women harvesting — some using 
sickles — and not a single man. Of course 
this was an extreme case. In regard to roads, 
however, we are greatly behind England and 
divers European countries, and to improve- 
ment in this respect our energies should be di- 
rected, assuring ample returns. In railroad- 
ing we surpass every other country except 
only in passenger cars. The much criticized 
and condemned compartment coaches of Eng- 
land, Belgium and France are to my mind far 
more comfortable, separate yet sociable, and 
pleasant than our day, parlor and sleeping car- 
avansaries. Neither is one annoyed and im- 
periled by smoke, cinders, dirt and blizzards 
inflicted through the raised window in front, 
or the often wide open doors both front and 
rear. 

John K. Ewing. 



VII. 

ACROSS NORWAY. 

OUR farewell to Tronclhjem was indeed a 
memorable one, at least for a few of 
us. Our spirits, always buoyant, had 
led us to pilfer some signs which we spied 
hanging - on our cars, and, not knowing the 
import of "optaget," we straightway begged 
our companions autographs. But our hilar- 
ity was soon tamed by the approaching gend- 
arme, whose severe brusqueness quite took our 
breath away — likewise one of our cherished 
souvenirs; though we considered ourselves 
more than even when we, later, waved him a 
tantalizing "au revoir" with the remaining 
cards we had concealed under our jackets. 

Though our journey was to be at night, we 
had no intention of sleeping, for here was our 
first and only opportunity of enjoying the in- 
terior scenery of Norway. 



62 From America to Russia. 

As we sped along we caught one last 
glimpse of the beautiful falls, the Lerfos, and 
passed on to the wilder country, where our 
first exclamation was caused by timber houses 
roofed with turf from which grew dwarf ever- 
green trees, sometimes to the number of a 
dozen. Quaint little stone churches were 
dotted here and there among the hills, and 
presently we found ourselves following the 
course of the beautiful Gula river, its waters so 
clear and green that the smallest pebbles were 
easily discernible. 

Farther on our attention was attracted to a 
pretty rustic bridge, on the center of which 
stood a young peasant girl, perhaps another 
"Thelma," whose costume of red jacket and 
blue skirt added a picturesqueness to the 
scene never to be forgotten. 

The fences were most curiously built of hor- 
izontal bars, through which were interwoven 
young saplings tied together with small twigs, 
and not standing upright, but all leaning to- 
ward the north, giving the effect of having 
been blown over by a windstorm. 

At one of the stations were discovered two 
spears of com planted as ornaments around a 
fountain, and it was amusing to see with what 




King Oscar's Summer Chateau. 

There are various summer residences on the islands and promontor- 
ies in the Christiania fjords, but none so conspicuous or artistic as that 
of King Oscar II. It was built in 1849, is adorned with elegant paint- 
ings and stands in a beautifully wooded park (Photo, by M. Estil.) 



Across Norzvay. 63 

interest and joy we crowded around to inspect 
this little reminder of dear old America. 

After passing through Roros, the highest 
point of our travels, a town situated on a bleak 
and dreary plateau where only the dwarf birch 
can thrive, we drew our curtains and prepared 
for a little rest before reaching Christiania. 

We were not over-impressed with our intro- 
duction to Norway's capital, and were inclined 
to regret staying here two days, but a most 
charming sail arranged by our good Manager 
around the Christiania fjord, opened up to us 
its magnificent situation at the foot of pine- 
clad hillls; and our delight at seeing along its 
banks beautiful country homes, among them 
Oscarshall, the King's summer residence, also 
that of Nansen, the explorer, brought us back 
to the city in a more enthusiastic mood than 
when we started off on the little steam yacht 
"Turist." 

As we sauntered up from the wharf, we 
wondered if Old Sol were not conspiring with 
Neptune to again entice us for a sail, for his 
rays were indeed unmercifully beating down 
upon our poor heads, and we gladly accepted 
an invitation to rest for a time at the House 
of Parliament or Storthings-Bygning, a hand- 
some granite building, the facade flanked by 



64 From America to Russia. 

two large stone lions. Our efforts in climbing 
the many flights of steps were rewarded by 
finding at the top the large room or "sal," 
where was being discussed by the members 
the question of narrow or wide-gauge tracks 
between Bergen and Christiania. 

In the afternoon we visited the Winter 
Palace, and found it plain and unostentatious, 
a proof of the tastes and mode of living of King 
Oscar. Our interest was next divided between 
the two Viking ships, still in wonderful pres- 
ervation, and some old church paintings hung 
on the walls of the sheds, the colors still mar- 
velously bright, but the figures drawn with lit- 
tle idea of perspective or action. 

Before returning to our hotel, I was greatly 
pleased to have pointed out to me the home of 
Dr. Henrik Ibsen, and later, at the Grand 
Hotel, I was again favored by having my cafe 
noir at a table adjoining that of this much 
talked of writer. 

Great excitement was caused by the an- 
nouncement on a news bulletin of the finding 
of Andree's balloon in one of the northern 
fjords, but later inquiries proved it to be a false 
rumor. 

Some of our gentlemen took a carriole ride 
to Holmenkollen, and reported a remarkably 




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Across Norway. 65 

beautiful hotel and extraordinary views of the 
fjord. 

I must not leave Christiania without speak- 
ing of our delightful evening at the Tivoli 
gardens, of whose attractions we had been told 
by our kind friends who had visited them the 
evening before. And I think we all agreed 
that such dancing, tumbling and acrobatic per- 
formances could not be excelled even in re- 
nowned Paris, nor in our opinion could the 
great Sousa write a more inspiring march than 
was played for us "by request" that evening. 
That it was popular and "catchy" was proven 
by the many times heard refrain: 







Mabel Therese Guerin. 






VIII. 

ACROSS SWEDEN. 

HAS one, unfamiliar with this route, a 
mental vision of a narrow stream of 
muddy water, a tow path, a bony horse 
and a flat canal boat? If so, he must crowd 
that picture out of mind and become aware of 
the fact that our journey of two hundred and 
fifty or more miles and occupying two and 
one-half days is made through the river Gota 
Elf, and Sweden's three largest and most beau- 
tiful lakes as well as over canals of clear water, 
and upon a handsome steamer. Little lake 
Wiken, between lakes Wennern and Wettern, 
should also be mentioned on account of the 
beautiful effect produced by its tiny tree-cov- 
ered islands, among which a course is marked 
out for tlie steamer to follow. 

The canals are West Gotha, connecting 
lakes Wennern and Wiken; the East Gotha 



Across Sweden. 67 

forming a water way between Wettern and 
Slatbaken, a long and narrow bay on the Bal- 
tic Sea, through which (the steamer passes, and 
then sometimes skirting the shore and some- 
times sailing in open sea it makes its way until 
at Sodertelge it turns into a short canal con- 
necting the sea with Lake Malaren. 

The locks through which the steamer passes 
in going from Gothenburg to Stockholm are 
seventy-four in number, fifty-six of them being 
used in the Gotha canals as a means by which 
the boats are enabled to rise to and descend 
from its highest point (300 feet) above the sea 
level. At Akersvass, near Trollhattan, where 
one may see the famous waterfalls, are the 
eleven locks constructed by Nils Ericsson, who 
in the years 1836-44 succeeded in the enterprise 
which the engineers Svedenborg and Polhem 
had undertaken in the early part of the eigh- 
teenth century and which they failed to accom- 
phsh because floating timber destroyed their 
work. 

It may be interesting to take a look at the 
tiny steamer "Venus" which carried the 
Honeyman party of '97 on a most delightful 
journey through these canals and lakes. She 
is one hundred and seven feet long, and in 
width twenty-three and one-half feet according 



68 From America to Russia. 

to Swedish measurement, which differs slightly 
from the English, a Swedish foot being a trifle 
the shorter. This little "Venus" is commanded 
by a Swedish captain who, assisted by one 
mate, gives orders to the six sailors. She will 
carry forty-one first-class and thirty-five third- 
class passengers and also freight. On the 
saloon deck are the dining-room, the captain's 
cabin and the "^Conversation Salon." Forward 
in the stern and separated from the cabin deck 
by a slender railing, the third-class passengers 
assemble themselves. 

As first-class travelers we were allowed the 
freedom of the boat. Such freedom was not 
to be despised and we all ascended many times 
the steep ladder-like stairway which led to the 
upper deck where the young and venturesome 
might (and did) sit on the covered life-boats 
and swing their feet, while more cautious 
pleasure seekers conversed with each other and 
the genial captain, who was always ready with 
a word — and more beside, in their own lan- 
guage, too — for his English-speaking pas- 
sengers. 

Below the saloon deck and reached by a 
staircase through the "Konversation" room are 
the state rooms — tiny ones, with space for two 
persons in each. One in the very stern of the 



Across Sweden. 69 

steamer, called the saloon state room, has ac- 
commodations for six. 

One member of the party seeing something 
that looked like an under deck passage to the 
stern of the steamer, and being curious in the 
matter of this boat's interior arrangement, fol- 
lowed the passage to the end and found herself 
under an open hatchway and close upon a 
small cargo of boxed cod fish. Her curiosity 
also turned her to the left and back through 
another narrow way at the end of which she 
found the cook and two maids in the kitchen. 
The visitor tried to open a conversation with 
the cook, but received only Swedish smiles in 
reply to questions. So, after satisfying herself 
that it was nothing unusual in the way of a 
kitchen, she answered with an American smile 
and left, ascending to the main deck to take 
one more look at Gothenburg. 

The brown walled and serious looking 
building opposite the dock is the prison. After 
a glance at that the eyes travel back across the 
open square where the drivers gather with 
their carriages to the wharf, and there are 
quaintly dressed Swedish women who eagerly 
exchange gooseberries, cherries, apples and 
pears for ore, the small coin of the country, 
taking always as many as they can get. 



yo From America to Russia. 

It was at mid-day, on Friday, July 30, when 
the "Venus" left Gothenburg, one day later 
than had been planned because no trip was 
made on Thursday. 

Perhaps through the endeavor to exchange 
English and American "coppers" for coin of 
the realm, a few members of the party had be- 
come acquainted with a banker of the city 
and his beautiful Russian greyhound. Anyhow, 
both dog and master drove to the wharf that 
Friday morning, just before the steamer's 
leaving time, to wish their American friends 
good-bye and a pleasant trip. Our eyes looked 
backward, as we glided away, at the banker 
on the wharf waving his most recent acquisi- 
tion, an American flag. One patriotic young 
lady answered with her stars and stripes, and 
who shall say we left our first Swedish city 
without a farewell from friends? 

So we were fairly started, and before the 
thorough enjoyment of the scenery began we 
were summoned to dinner in the little dining 
salon made to accommodate only twenty- 
four at one time. Our party, numbering 
twenty-six, filled the two tables pretty full. 
We were given the first sitting at all the meals, 
but even by this arrangement we were not en- 
abled to breakfast until nine, dine at half-past 



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Across Sweden. 71 

one and have supper served at half-past seven. 
In so doing, we gave up the dining-room to 
the native travelers in time for the very late 
meals customary in their country. 

A slight delay in the service of our first meal 
was caused by our unfamiliarity with the 
Smorgasboard, or sandwich table. According 
to the Swedish custom, each one, as he enters 
the dining room, helps himself to a plate at the 
Smorgasboard, taking from there also small 
portions of the various relishes he may fancy — 
a sardine, a slice of tongue or cold meat, per- 
haps a quarter of a hard boiled egg, a taste of 
potato salad, or a piece of smoked salmon. 
Butter, if he wishes it, is almost always on the 
Smorgasboard. Having made his selection, 
he eats there, standing, and, later, takes his 
place at table. We, however, took to and ate 
at table these "appetizers;" after that the reg- 
ular meal begins. 

A very general stir in small quarters was the 
result when this custom was made known to 
us. The two pretty waitresses stood in the 
doors and watched the initiation of the Ameri- 
cans with interest. These maids, Pauline and 
Christine, Pauline especially, deserve more 
than a passing glance. Both were attired in 
the native costume, black velvet bodice out- 



J 2 From America to Russia. 

lined with gilt braid, worn over a white muslin 
guimpe and a short black skirt. Christine 
had a white apron, but it was Pauline who wore 
the pretty, bright striped one seen so much in 
Sweden. Pauline served coffee on deck to 
the Americans and when the native travelers 
desired refreshments it was she who brought 
the 61, a light beer, or the Swedish punch, 
which is a stronger beverage and very good — 
they so told us. Pauline knew a little English 
and when she wished us good night said "Sleep 
sweet." Pauline was — well any one might 
know it was an American who called Pauline 
a "peach." 

But that first meal on board the "Venus" we 
shall not soon forget. There was soup, made 
very thick with carrots, peas and almost every 
other seasonable vegetable, which might have 
been called a vegetable compote quite appro- 
priately. It was really good, which is more than 
may be said for the cherry soup, served to us 
two days later — a thick, oily substance, like a 
bisque with pitted cherries floating in it, a 
beautiful red in color and tasting like castor 
oil. We hoped that cherry soup would be well 
enjoyed at the second sitting and were quite 
willing to reserve our share, if thereby the 
Swedes might have a second portion. After 



Across Sweden. 73 

soup we were given turbot, served with Hol- 
landaise sauce and boiled potatoes; then boiled 
mutton accompanied by spiced currants and 
sliced cucumbers. Of bread, there were three 
varieties, white, rye and the Swedish knokke- 
brod, which is very coarse and dark and baked 
in round flat cakes about ten inches in dia- 
meter, like the Norwegian flad brod, except 
that in Norway they mix caraway seed with 
the dough. 

Our dessert, apple pie, had, it is true, an 
American name, but the similarity to our 
standby ended there. Well made apple pie is 
good, but the Swedish pie was worthy of even 
a better name. It was made with two crusts; 
between them and on top were layers of stewed 
apples; crowning this a thick layer of whipped 
cream dotted with bits of bright red jelly. The 
whole was cut in orthodox three-cornered 
pieces and served with a cold custard sauce. 
This pie found favor with the Americans, but 
custom did not stale it for us. Some one 
said there was a man from New Jersey who 
sought an interview with the cook and who, 
when he found that canal boat cuisine included 
such pie only once, wished that he had taken 
more than two pieces and — a photograph. 

The after dinner coffee was served on deck 



74 From America to Russia. 

for twenty-five ore (6} cents) and with the 
coffee began our enjoyment of the unfolding 
panorama on each side. 

Gothenburg is on the Gota Elf, and 
through that river we sailed for some hours, 
watching the tall grasses along the banks bend 
at our approach, the farmers mowing this 
same grass when not under water and the 
women doing their washing on flat stones 
or little wooden platforms built at the water's 
edge. We observed the washers as they spread 
the garments out and beat them with wooden 
paddles, and we felt sure that only clothing of 
the most durable texture could survive such 
treatment. On each side of the Gota Elf there 
is much rock of the gneiss formation and quan- 
tities of heather. 

At Kungelf, a very old town on the left 
bank of the river, may be seen the ruins of what 
was once Bohnsfort, built in 1308. This 
picturesque ruin stands on a rocky elevation 
and with its round tower and one window has 
the appearance of a savage Cyclops, always on 
guard. 

Sailing on to Akerstrom we mounted, at that 
place, our first step in the staircase of locks. 
This one, named for Gustavus Adolphus, is the 
largest lock along the route. It was built in 



Across Sweden. 75 

1779 in order that the boats might pass a water- 
fall to be seen at the right. We watched the 
steamer's entrance with eager interest; the 
novelty of seeing the heavy sluice gates close 
behind us, after which those in front were 
slowly opened, gradually letting in the water 
upon which the steamer rose to a new level, 
never wore away throughout the trip. 

As it required nearly two hours for the 
"Venus" to ascend the series of locks through 
which it rises to Trollhattan, there was ample 
time for those who wished to leave the boat at 
the first lock in this series, hire carriages and 
visit the falls, six in number. After a short 
drive from Akersvass over a good road, we 
left the carriages and were guided through a 
pine grove to one of these waterfalls; imposing 
on account of the great volume of seething and 
foaming water, rather than the height of the 
falls, which is not great. From an iron car- 
riage bridge built across the Trollhattan river, 
we were able to obtain a fine view of the 
Toppo fall ; and near one end of this bridge we 
saw the old lock planned by Polhem nearly 
two hundred years ago but left unfinished. 

We entered Lake Wennern in the evening, 
enjoyed a most beautiful sunset and spent all 
night in crossing that sheet of water. 



j6 From America to Russia. 

Four masculine members of the party, de- 
siring to see a Sunday in Stockholm, left the 
steamer Saturday morning, and hurried on by 
train. They missed much of the richest beauty 
of the canal ; the fairest farm lands were passed 
that day and at times the canal narrowed to a 
silver thread, hardly more than the steamer's 
width, when branches of the trees on either 
side were within reach of the outstretched 
hand. Just at evening, near Vassbakken, we 
passed in a small grove of white birch trees on 
the right bank the brown stone shaft that 
marks the highest point on the canal. That 
four men should deliberately choose a dusty 
car ride in preference to the rural loveliness of 
this canal was incomprehensible; we sorrowed 
for them. And there were those of us who 
sent our sorrow forth in song, from the top of 
a life boat on the upper deck. Then was 
there American music in the Swedish air! And 
when the steamer halted at a little landing 
place the natives listened with manifest delight. 
There was a charm for the singers in the nov- 
elty of the situation and when a young woman 
called up from the wharf "Please sing the 
'Bowery,' " we complied with a right good will 
and assured those Swedish people that we 
should "Xever go there any more." The same 



Across Sweden. 7 7 

English-speaking admirer then asked for 
"Sweet Marie," and we sailed away, each one 
beseeching "Come to me!" 

Sunday on the "Venus" was restful, and we 
observed that the native people were enjoying 
their day in a quiet though continental manner. 
Family groups and picnic parties in Sabbath 
day attire moved along the banks under the 
trees, sociably chatting together and eating 
their lunches they carried in peculiar, box-like 
baskets made of wood. 

Sunday afternoon the steamer entered the 
Baltic and passed through a rain storm; the 
thought of its dreariness lent keener apprecia- 
tion, a little later, as we began to enjoy the 
long lingering glory of the setting sun, which 
sent a radiant, golden pathway out athwart the 
sea. 

During that short night we steamed close 
along the coast until the Sodertelge Canal was 
reached. We passed through that and then 
across the eastern end of Lake Malaren, arriv- 
ing at Stockholm about four o'clock in the 
morning. 

The "Venus" was our morning star and she 
held us, willing worshipers, until five o'clock, 
when Pauline served us with coffee and sweet 
cakes on deck. Then, almost under shadow 



78 From America to Russia. 

of the historic Riddarholm Church, we waited 
for sleeping Stockholm to awake and give us 
welcome. 

Henrietta F. Williams. 



^ 

^ 




A Fjord View, About 9 P. M. 



IX. 

IN STOCKHOLM. 



i'F you want to see the entrance to Stock 



I 



holm you must be on deck before four 
o'clock to-morrow morning," said a 
friendly voice in my ear on Sunday evening, as 
I was going to my state room on the "Venus," 
which had been our home for nearly three days. 
It is an early start, I said to myself as I went 
below, but to miss that entrance of which I had 
heard such glowing accounts all my life was 
not to be thought of. 

So, a little after three o'clock the next morn- 
ing, found me on deck, watching the many 
green islands, more in number than the 
'Thousand Isles" of the St. Lawrence, with 
their pretty villas and gardens that make Lake 
Malar so picturesque. As the "Venus" neared 
the wharf one after another of our party ap- 



So From America to Russia. 

peared on deck ready to welcome the sight of a 
new city with its picturesque surroundings. On 
onr right the shores rise high above the water 
like a rocky parapet, and here, where a new 
road has lately been built winding in a zig-zag 
line to, the top, enormous breweries have been 
erected and the commercial life of the city is 
evident. Large factories are also situated to 
the left, but here the shores are low and the 
impression is less striking. 

It is, however, directly in front of the wharf 
that our attention is particularly directed, for 
here on the island called "The City" stand the 
two most interesting of the many stately build- 
ings of Stockholm: Riddarholm, "The West- 
minster Abbey" of Sweden, and the Royal 
Palace where Oscar II. has his home. The 
church is finely situated in an open square in 
which is the figure in bronze of the founder of 
the city — the stern warrior King, who stands 
there in his armor of mail well pleased with the 
success of his creation. Within the church 
are buried the great and honored of Sweden's 
kings and warriors, Gustavus Adolphus, the 
great champion of the Lutheran Church in 
the North, Charles XL, the warlike but eccen- 
tric King, and Charles XIV., or Bernadotte,the 
founder of the present dynasty. Some famous 



In Stockholm. 81 

Generals of the Thirty Years' War also rest 
here, while the armorial bearings of many 
royal homes draw strongly upon one's his- 
torical knowledge. Aside from the association 
thus aroused there is little in the church itself 
to excite attention, and perhaos the most in- 
teresting thought that lingers in my mind is 
that of a faded wreath hung on the outside 
wall, which on the anniversary of the death of 
the King is every year renewed. My com- 
panion, a sweet Swedish woman with whom I 
took my first walk in Stockholm that Monday 
morning, while waiting for the hotel to open, 
pointed to the wreath and told its history, add- 
ing: "No one knows who the woman is that 
brings it, but she never fails to hang a fresh 
one there each year." 

This Swedish lady was ever ready with true 
northern courtesy to render any aid in her 
power to us as tourists from the far-away New 
World, and I am sure many of us will long re- 
member her slight figure, sweet face and gentle 
smile as she stood on the deck of the "Venus," 
quick to translate into English a puzzling 
sentence or explain some bewildering custom. 

Among the pleasantest of the many pleasant 
memories of travel are those faces, which, from 
time to time, recur to us as belonging to some 



82 From America to Russia. 

who by word or deed have made a foreign city 
seem less strange and more like home. I re- 
call at this moment the voice and face of a 
young man who in a store in Stockholm 
stepped forward and in excellent English ar- 
ranged a desired purchase for me, and on being 
questioned with regard to his English answered 
that he had been eight years in a picture store 
in Providence, R. L; a store, by the way, well 
known to me in my occasional visits to that 
city. Truly the world is small, we say, in 
thinking of these things. 

All I had ever been told of Swedish courtesy 
was more than realized in Stockholm; for it 
was here that coming out of the Exposition 
grounds with one of our party we found our- 
selves in an unknown part of the city and could 
see no cab nor tram-car at hand. We ac- 
costed with all the languages at our command 
several persons, receiving only anxious, un- 
comprehending looks, until a lady rose from a 
seat in a park near by and coming toward us, 
in exquisite French and an exquisite manner, 
sent us rejoicing on our way. Her face is as 
vividly before me now as are many of the fine 
portraits in the art gallery of the Exposition; 
for the great attraction of Stockholm this year 
is the Exposition. 



In Stockholm. 83 

The Exposition was held in the new build- 
ings erected near and in the Djurgarden or 
Deer Park. The exhibition was most inter- 
esting, but the collection of pictures by the best 
artists of Scandinavia chiefly attracted me. To 
many Americans the exhibit at the World's 
Fair in Chicago of these northern artists was a 
revelation of color and technique. Here at 
Stockholm was an opportunity to see on a 
larger scale the work of the Swedish, Norwe- 
gian and Danish artists, Zorn, Oscar Bjorck, 
Carl Larsson and Prince Eugene were well 
represented by characteristic works. These all 
belong to the Impressionist School, but their 
coloring is more brilliant than that of the more 
southern schools. But this very brilliancy of 
coloring, which had perplexed me in America 
as I studied their paintings, was now easily 
comprehended after seeing the wonderful sun- 
rise and sunset effects in these northern lands. 
These Swedish and Norwegian painters have a 
right to* their rich colors which are not mixed 
with imagination but with realism. The bril- 
liant reds which Zorn so well knows how to 
use, as, for example, in the portrait in the 
Stockholm Exposition of a young girl stand- 
ing ready as it were to spring from the canvas 
and extend a hand of welcome to the stranger 



84 From America to Russia. 

before her, are here subdued but without los- 
ing their vividness by the rich brown of the fur 
thrown over one shoulder, while the whole im- 
pression is as weird as are some of the effects 
of light and shade in this land of the midnight 
sun. 

Bjorck is a painter who does not perhaps 
produce as startling effects as Zorn, for he 
seems to hold his power in reserve and by this 
very self-control he attracts and holds the at- 
tention. A half-length portrait of the young 
"Fru E," at the Exposition is one of his most 
fascinating pictures. Amused at something she 
has heard, or somebody she has seen, perhaps 
yourself as you stand before her, she looks out 
from the canvas with a bright smile of recogni- 
tion on her face, while you stop involuntarily 
to catch, if possible, the explanation from her 
parted lips. A fair young woman she is in her 
light blue dress, with only the delicate lace 
tracery of a screen behind her and the simplic- 
ity of the work is as striking as the fiery ardor 
of Zorn's creation in her red dress and girlish 
mirth. The pictures seem typical of the two 
painters, and may account for the preference 
which the Swedes themselves give to Bjorck 
over his brother artist. 

The study of these northern pictures on a 



In Stockholm. 85 

showery afternoon, when the brilliant sunlight 
and the dark rain clouds strangely alternated 
without, left an indelible impression on my 
mind and a firm conviction that Scandinavian 
art has a great part yet to play in the artistic 
life of the world. 

One of the charms of Stockholm is that ex- 
cursions are easily made by tramway or boat to 
all the environs of the city. A few of our 
party had a delightful trip given by the Man- 
ager on one of the little steamers to Drottning- 
holm, the summer residence of the King. The 
pretty villas on the island and mainland as we 
passed looked invitingly at us, but we were 
eager to see the Palace, and I think hardly ap- 
preciated their beauty and simplicity. Yet 
Drottningholm itself is refreshingly simple; a 
country home where life can be spent apart 
from the ceremony that is the usual accom- 
paniment of royalty. Many interesting pictures 
by Scandinavian artists of the old school, 
(which was that of Dusseldorf), and some by 
foreign painters adorned the walls, and in the 
large ball room was an interesting gallery of 
portraits of all the sovereigns of Europe who 
were cotemporary with Oscar I., the father of 
the present King. Exquisite models of Greek 
and Roman statues and architecture were scat- 



86 From America to Russia. 

tered through the apartments as if the collec- 
tor, probably Oscar L, who did much to beau- 
tify the place, had taken a real pleasure in 
bringing them together. 

On one side the grounds of Drottningholm 
reach to the waters of the fjord and on the 
other side the garden, stretching away into the 
distance, reminds one, as indeed do all royal 
gardens, of Versailles. 

Stockholm is well supplied with horse-cars, 
though the method of taking the fares of the 
passengers seems to an American very primi- 
tive. The conductor carries in his hand what 
seems at first sight to be a small lantern, but 
further inspection proves to be a receptacle into 
which, by means of a slit in the top, the pas- 
sengers can drop his 10 ore, or three cents, the 
price of his ride. 

If the Swedes in this case still cling to an old 
custom, they have at least adopted some new 
ones, as for instance the telephone, which it is 
said is more freely used in Stockholm than in 
any other city of the world. 

As we entered Stockholm from the west in 
the early morning, it was fitting that our de- 
parture should be from the east and just before 
sunset. We were starting for Russia on one 
of the fine steamers that ply between Stock- 



In Stockholm. 8 7 

holm and St. Petersburg, but even that fascin- 
ating country could not dampen our ardor for 
the pleasure we had found in the sister king- 
dom of Norway and Sweden; and the remem- 
brance of our delightful visit to Stockholm, 
with its courteous people, its well-beloved 
sovereign and its fascinating position, will ever 
be one of the choicest recollections of our al- 
most faultless summer wanderings of 1897. 

Charlotte Titcomb. 




X. 

FINLAND AND ST. PETERSBURG. 

AS our pretty little steamer, the "Tornea," 
the best we had found in Northern 
European waters, drew up gently to the 
wharf at Helsingfors, the capital of Finland, 
it found us all eagerly waiting to land, for 
our intense desire now was to enter one of the 
funny carriages in waiting and explore the city. 
At last our wish was gratified; eleven dros- 
kies, each containing two persons, started. The 
night came down all too soon and we had seen 
little; so we finished the remaining few hours 
of our stay at the Public Garden, where two 
bands were playing, the one composed of wo- 
men, who played remarkably well. Of course, 
owing to our hurried trip, I could hardly write 
at great length of Helsingfors, but I was im- 
pressed most favorably with its location and 
beautiful harbor. 



Finland and St. Petersburg. 89 

At 1 A. M. we were en route for St. Peters- 
burg. For many years my most ardent desire 
had been to visit Russia. The book of George 
Kennan, the lectures of John L. Stoddard and 
the numerous accounts given of that wonderful 
and mysterious country had only served to in- 
crease that desire to see all those glories for 
myself; and so, when the steamer approached 
the low-lying shores off Cronstadt, I experi- 
enced that thrill of nervous anticipation only 
felt when one is about to visit an unknown 
land; visions of all I had ever read or heard 
of detentions, imprisonments, police surveil- 
lance and other like experiences, passed before 
my mental vision, especially as I saw a dozen 
or more huge Russian war vessels waiting to 
receive the Emperor of Germany, due the next 
day. 

At St. Petersburg I put on a bold front 
and passed with my fellow-travelers to the 
wharf. As anticipated, a demand was made 
for "passports" by an officer stationed at the 
gangplank. I calmly informed him in plain 
English that "our courier attended to those 
matters," and, while he was struggling with as- 
tonishment, started forward, and, under the 
guidance of the colored porter of our pros- 
pective hotel, entered one of the carriages in 



9o From America to Russia. 

waiting. After a delay of one hour, we were 
allowed to depart. 

During a sojourn of several days in St. 
Petersburg, we found that the great secret of 
success in surmounting all difficulties was to 
ignore completely those who spoke Russian to 
us and follow our own sweet will, for, either 
tiring of our imperturbability, or else thinking 
our silence characteristic of Americans, they 
invariably shrugged their shoulders and re- 
tired. The city presented a most beautiful ap- 
pearance, in gala attire, in honor of the visit of 
Emperor William to the Czar. Flags floated 
from every building, columns were wound with 
the imperial colors, red trimmed with ermine, 
or rather white canton flannel, dotted with 
small pieces of black cloth. Even with this 
holiday aspect, I was at once struck with the 
hopelessness of life in Russia. There was 
seemingly no mirth. I rarely heard a laugh 
and in the streets there was such an absence of 
conversation. Every one moved along in a 
half-hearted fashion, in marked contrast to the 
Paris and London which we had so recently 
left. 

One evening, in the salon, a young officer 
was seated near one of our party. Entering 
into conversation with him, the officer pro- 




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Finland and St. Petersburg. 91 

posed that the party should visit Peterhof, one 
of the summer residences of the Imperial 
family and just then en fete, and said he would 
take particular pleasure in showing us its 
beauties. Of course, we availed ourselves of 
his unlooked-for invitation, and it was owing to 
his courteousness and excessive kindness that 
we were enabled to view Peterhof's charming 
and novel attractions. 

How can I describe the fairy-like scene we 
witnessed there? Our drive was through the 
large park, with its innumerable fountains all 
playing, without limit to their number and 
variety. Numberless mythological subjects 
figure in these fountains, and I recall one par- 
ticularly, the fountain of Samson, where Sam- 
son is contending with a lion, which throws up 
a jet of water to the height of eighty feet. We 
saw an artificial tree, each leaf and twig send- 
ing forth a stream of water. In one pond are 
fish that will come to be fed at sound of a 
bell. As our time was limited, we contented 
ourselves in gazing where these fish were sup- 
posed to be. 

I read recently an incident told of Prince 
Bismarck, when he was the Prussian ambas- 
sador at the Czar's Court, and which admirably 
illustrates Russian absolutism. He was stand- 



92 From America to Russia. 

ing one day at a window of the Peterhof palace 
with Alexander II., when he observed a sentinel 
in the center of a spacious lawn with apparently 
nothing whatever to guard. Out of curiosity 
he inquired of the Emperor why the man was 
stationed there. Alexander turned to an aide- 
de-camp, "Count Schonfalof, why is that 
soldier stationed there?" "I do not know, 
your Imperial Majesty." The Czar frowned 
and answered curtly: "Send me the officer in 
command for the day." Presently the officer 
appeared, pale with apprehension. "Prince 
Ivanovitch Poniatowsky, why is a sentinel sta- 
tioned on that lawn?" "Really, your Majesty, 
I — I do not know," stammered the officer. 
"Not know?" cried the Czar in surprise. "Re- 
quest then the general in command of the 
troops at Peterhof to present himself im- 
mediately." A few moments later the com- 
mandant hurried to the spot in a state of great 
fear and agitation. "General Petrovitch 
Sscherneschewski Bogoljnbof Nijninovgoro- 
dinski," asked the Czar, "will you be kind 
enough to inform us why that soldier is sta- 
tioned in yonder isolated place?" "I beg to 
inform your Majesty tihat it is in accordance 
with an ancient custom," replied the general 
evasively. "What was the origin of the cus- 



Finland and St. Petersburg. 93 

torn?" calmly inquired Bismarck. "I — I do 
not at present recollect," stammered the officer. 
"Investigate the subject and report the result," 
the Czar said. The investigation began and, 
after three days and nights of labor, it was as- 
certained that about eighty years before, one 
morning in spring, Catherine II. observed in 
the center of this lawn the first mayflower of 
the season lifting its delicate head above the 
lately frozen soil. She ordered a soldier to 
stand there to prevent its being plucked. The 
order was duly inscribed upon the books; and 
thus for eighty years, summer and winter, a 
sentinel had stood upon that spot, no one, until 
Prince Bismarck's time, caring to question the 
reason of the custom. 

Leaving Peterhof we returned to St. Peters- 
burg to prepare for our little trip to Krasnoe- 
Selo, the great military camp, where the review 
of troops by the Emperor William was to take 
place next day. The box and seats the members 
of our party occupied were in front of the grand- 
stand, and on the vast plain in front of us was 
drawn up regiment after regiment, awaiting the 
arrival of the two Emperors. In the distance 
we heard a muffled sound, which, becoming 
more distinct, heralded the approach of those 
we had been so anxiously awaiting. On horse- 



94 I ; rom America to Russia. 

back came the two upon whom all eyes were 
riveted, the Emperor riding on the right of the 
Czar; in an open carriage came the two Em- 
presses, bowing to the shouting multitude. 
The band of one thousand pieces played, and 
we saw royalty and its full court in court dress. 
Later, a few special ones with the crowned 
heads passed into a tent prepared for them, and, 
after some feasting, the Emperors and Em- 
presses entered a carriage and were driven 
down the road directly in front of us. For the 
time being we were as patriotic Russians as 
those about us, and when the Emperors saluted 
the little American flag which one of our party 
waved, we felt that our day had been a most 
successful one. 

It was then nine P. M. and the forty bands 
struck up the evening prayer; it was responded 
to in singing by the different regiments, and 
as the beautiful strains grew fainter and fainter 
in the distance, we turned our faces homeward, 
sorry that the brilliant pageant was over. 
Hurrying to the cars we were literally lifted 
into a third class compartment, by the strug- 
gling crowd, but as the occupants were pleas- 
antly disposed Russians, we concluded to re- 
main rather than try our luck elsewhere. 

Of the hair-breadth escapes while driving on 



Finland and St. Petersburg. 95 

the Nevski Prospect, only those who have had 
a like experience can testify. In Russia the 
horse seems to be in full accord with his mas- 
ter, but during my first drive I clutched the 
side of the drosky to keep from being precipi- 
tated on the cobble stones. After a few turns 
around corners, however, seeing that we kept 
our equilibrium, it became quite exhilarating. 

The drosky drivers are a stolid set of men, 
never seemingly moved by anything, except- 
ing the occasional thumps we gave tliem to 
indicate that we wished to stop or move on; 
for after a glance at the Russian alphabet, I 
did not have the ambition to even learn yes 
or no. 

One funny experience was, when wishing to 
go from a certain church to our hotel, we sig- 
naled a drosky, mentioning the hotel to the 
driver. He shook his head. With the deter- 
mination of Americans we jumped into the 
carriage and motioned him to go on. The 
first corner we gave him a thump and waved 
to the right; next corner another thump and a 
wave to the left; and so on, until we reached 
the hotel. After paying him his fare, I stood 
on the carriage step and said three times slow- 
ly: Hotel d'Angleterre!" making him repeat 
it after me. That lesson in English was given 



96 From America to Russia. 

for the benefit of future visitors to St. Peters- 
burg-. A smile illumined his features and we 
parted most amicably, notwithstanding the 
numerous thumps in his side. I trust he 
profited by his lesson. 

Sunday morning was devoted to visiting the 
different churches, chiefly the Kazan Cathe- 
dral, with its wealth of treasure, and St. Isaac's, 
with its magnificent dome covered with gold 
and surrounded by thirty monolithic shafts. 
Owing to the kindness of a soldier on guard 
we were allowed to go up nearly to the altar 
of St. Isaac's during service. The musical, 
sonorous voice of the priest, who intoned the 
service; the deep devotion of the kneeling mul- 
titude; the light on the ornamentations of jas- 
per, porphyry, and malachite, all made up a 
whole so exquisite as to seem scarcely real. 

On Monday, our last day in St. Petersburg, 
we visited the Winter Palace, the most beauti- 
ful I have ever seen (with the exception of the 
one at Moscow). It contained room after 
room of matchless beauty, with polished floors, 
crystal chandeliers, and exquisite souvenirs, 
filled with the memories of those who had 
peopled them at different times and who had 
so often met with an untimely death. The 




The Singing Deacon of St. Isaac's. 

An accurate likeness of the chief intoner of the Greek Church 
litany in St. Isaac's Cathedral. St. Petersburg ; the man whom all 
visitors to that cathedral remember as havintr a voice like one of 
the great bells in the tower ; or, as one writer says, " whose basso 
profundo, of incredible power, resouuds like the notes of a great 
organ to the remotest end of the building." 



Finland and St. Petersburg. 97 

Romanoffs have been an unfortunate race, 
rarely living to a serene old age. 

As I left St. Petersburg, on our way to Mos- 
cow, and saw her disappear in the gathering 
twilight, I felt that it had been a joy to have 
seen her. 

Abbie Ranlett Mason. 










XL 



THE OLD RUSSIAN CAPITAL. 



MOSCOW, the golden, Moscow, the 
magnificent, we have seen thee, 
greeted thee, and are quite willing 
to bid thee good-bye. 

Our expectations were overweening or our 
pride would not have had so sudden a fall. 
We really expected an oriental city of dazzling 
splendor at the first outlook from our railway 
window, and we discerned, instead, simply 
coarsely-painted, low, white buildings, with 
enough dust in the distance to warrant our be- 
lief that we were coming to a Sahara. We 
looked for mosques; we saw only wretched 
buildings, a plain and poor station, and a 
motley crowd of disagreeable looking people. 

We had left St. Petersburg at seven P. M. 
and traveled all night in pretty comfortable 



The Old Russian Capital. 99 

sleeping coaches, at a pace of nearly forts 
miles an hour. That railway we knew to be 
in almost a straight line, for did not an em- 
peror lay his ruler upon a map and indicate 
that it must run that course, regardless of 
cities, or streams, or desert? So far as we 
knew, we swung around no curves and climbed 
no mountains. When morning came we had 
a good breakfast in a dining car and then 
looked out upon a rather sterile, flat country, 
with villages that seemed to be composed only 
of small, unpainted barns, with zigzag road- 
paths running hither and yon regardless of a 
surveyor's draught, and with little else of inter- 
est. There were white birches, and straggling 
forests, and occasionally a harvest field. Be- 
fore we seemed aware of it, when the hour 
said half-past nine, we arrived at our destina- 
tion. 

If we could have come at once in view of 
the kingly Kremlin, entered its antique portals, 
climbed the Ivan Tower, and looked out upon 
the magical scene there presented, we should — 
I am sure I should — have thanked God that 
we were permitted to gaze even for a moment 
upon such Byzantine splendors. But it was 
not to be. We went down through despair to 
reach the heights later. We bowed low in the 



ioo From America to Russia. 

dust and grime, saw wretchedness and want, 
and then our souls grew faint and some one 
cried aloud, "Take, oh take us quickly away 
from this Russia; we hate it, we loathe it; it is 
intolerable." 

I confess now to a timorous apprehension 
during some weeks before that our Aioscow 
days might be those of disappointment. The 
feeling increased at St. Petersburg, and grew 
apace as we neared the storied capital. And 
now that we were there, should we sec only 
dirt and poverty, and candidates for Siberian 
emigration? Some would have left the city 
forthwith, shaking the dust from our feet and 
departing with speed. But it was too much to 
agree to leave for Warsaw before we had even 
tried to hunt up the Kremlin, and so I could 
not promptly join my fellow-Egyptians in their 
murmurs. 

Our hotel was not as sweet and clean as the 
Waldorf, though it was fairly good. It was 
the "Berlin," kept by a Swiss gentleman, who 
spoke English well, German perfectly, and 
Russian perhaps worst of all. He was atten- 
tive to our wants, enlightened our minds plen- 
tifully on the subject of the taxes of Russia, 
and how it was that his hotel was (in his view) 
economical to travelers above other hotels. I 



The Old Russian Capital. m 

think he really meant to make us comfortable 
and happy, but we were not very willing to 
be so. 

I might as well jot it down now that in 
Russia we were not exactly afraid of Siberia 
or the passport examiner, but we were just a 
mite uncomfortable from day to day. Those 
passports had to be vised so frequently. There 
was such an embargo placed on inter-com- 
munication because of the outlandish language 
the people spoke and their stubbornness in no: 
understanding English. The drosky drivers 
were such barbarians in conduct and gesture. 
There was so much of the Tartar in the street 
walkers and so little of the Christian in the 
street sights, notwithstanding the shrines of 
saints at every corner, that some grew afraid. 
I judge Moscow, like St. Petersburg, to be en- 
tirely safe to man or woman at any hour of 
the day and up till the night's zenith, but we 
lacked faith! 

Moscow was dirty and hot, and altogether 
disagreeable in its cobblestone pavements — 
the worst, by the way, I ever saw in any city. 
If Zion is a hard hill to climb, harder is the 
path up to and around the Kremlin, the altar 
of Moscow and the glory of Russia. 

That Kremlin, when we once saw it from 



102 



From America to Russia. 



the Ivan height, was simply superb in its 
splendors. Xo one then thought of hovels or 
barbarians, but of the magnificent prodigality 
of brain that devised, and the tremendous 
strength of will that executed such minarets, 
domes and cathedrals, such palaces, monas- 
teries and treasure houses. 

To understand the relation of the Kremlin 
to present Moscow, you must conceive of a 
city on a plain, of 850,000 inhabitants, and in 
its center a slight, square hill, and on that hill 
pile up all the architecture of Tartar khans and 
Romanoff princes and Czars, from Dolgoron- 
ski, in 1 147, to this day; a heterogeneous, but 
wonderfully rich mass of color and pictur- 
esqueness, and you have the Kremlin. It is 
within stone walls, perhaps twenty feet high, 
pierced with five gates, and to-day contains 
treasures never exceeded by Solomon's Tem- 
ple. 

To comprehend why Moscow is what it is 
one must recollect that in the reign of Ivan L, 
about five hundred and sixty years ago, Mos- 
cow was the supreme city of the three com- 
peting for supremacy within ancient Russian 
territory. It held that position until 1812, 
when its inhabitants gave up overmuch of their 
proud possessions to the devouring element, 



The Old Russian Capital. 103 

preferring to burn down their homes and melt 
up their jewels, and so rob Moscow of all its 
glory, rather than yield to the ambition of 
Napoleon. It was one of the grandest sacri- 
fices ever made upon a national altar of flame 
and sword. Happily there is enough left to 
astonish visitors now as did the wonders of the 
East that famous traveler, Marco Polo. 

The imperial residence was transferred to 
St. Petersburg in 171 1, in the time of Peter the 
Great, but the latter city made no pretensions 
to equal the goodly wealth of decoration of the 
more ancient city. Petersburg's inhabitants 
number 1,200,000; Moscow's, 850,000; but, 
notwithstanding the self-immolation of 1812, 
the wealth piled up against the columns and 
upon the altars of the cathedrals and in the 
other public buildings of Moscow probably 
outrival that of any city in Europe. 

There are two ways of securing a just im- 
pression of the magnificence, as to its gold and 
jewels, of this old Tartar heritage. The first, 
which is the way in which a stranger 
should early secure the impression, is to 
climb by easy steps what is known as 
the Ivan Tower, and then, at the height 
of something less than three hundred feet, 
when beneath the gilded cupola, survey 



104 From America to Russia. 

the Kremlin at his feet. Going np this Ivan 
Tower, by the way, yon will pass by a large 
number of bells of various sizes and tones, per- 
haps as many as fifty. The largest weighs 
sixty-four tons. The smaller are two silver 
bells, said to be exquisite in tone and of beauti- 
ful contour. It is the ringing of all these bells 
on Easter eve which produces a memorable ef- 
fect upon visitors. 

From this elevation one sees below him, 
within a stone's throw, gold-crowned cathe- 
drals, monasteries, the Arsenal, the Royal Pal- 
ace, and beyond them, walls ; then the Moscow 
river, great squares, towers and mosques of all 
colors, and beyond these other cathedrals with 
domes dipped into the rainbow and burnished 
by the sunlight into opulent iridescence. 

The next natural method to deepen tne im- 
pression of the richness of these architectural 
splendors, is, after descending, to enter each 
of the more prominent buildings near the 
tower and within the Kremlin walls. 

There is, for instance, the Cathedral of the 
Assumption, in which all the Russian Emper- 
ors are crowned. Its five domes are resplen- 
dent with gold over copper, and its pavement is 
of jasper and agate. Within there are jeweled 
icons, shrines covered with diamonds and em- 




Cathedral of the Assumption, Moscow. 

The venerable church in which the emperors have been crowned from 
Ivan II. (1353) until now. It is a mixture of Byzantine and Lombard 
types of architecture, dates trom 1326.and contains the tombs of the found- 
er, St. Peter, first Metropolitan of Moscow, and other Patriarchs. Each 
of its five domes is covered with gold and its wealth of gold and jewel 
ornamentations and of sacred pictures in the interior is almost incalcul- 
able. 



The Old Russian Capital. 105 

eralcls, pillars of pure gold, frescoes thoroughly 
Byzantine, marbles from Sienna, and porphyry 
from Finland. And to the worshipers it is a 
place of peculiar veneration, because of the 
coronation ceremonies which have been held 
within its walls since the time of the Russian 
patriarchs. Here are buried all those early 
metropolitans of Moscow, beginning with St. 
Peter, who built the first church on the spot in 
1326 and the primates of the church; and here 
are single pictures adorned with jewels to the 
value of more than $200,000 each. One can 
neither enter nor leave this wonderful sanctu- 
ary without being surprised at its smallness 
considering its historical associations, nor 
without being overwhelmed at a sense of the 
magnitude of the offerings of those wicked 
men and pious women, who, in former days, 
through motives of so-called religion, gave al- 
most all that they possessed to adorn this 
temple. 

Then, very near by, is the Cathedral of the 
Archangel Michael, another building with five 
gilded domes, over six hundred and fifty years 
old in some portions, and all of it over four 
hundred and eighty years of age; the mauso- 
leum of two of the most ancient dynasties of 
the Czars, Herein lie Ivan, the Terrible, and 



io6 From America to Russia. 

his assassinated son, and about the latter's 
tomb are various personal relics, including- his 
own portrait in frame of finest gold. This 
church contains one of the earliest copies of 
the Gospels known in Russia, a treasure house, 
and icons not less remarkable than in the Ca- 
thedral of the Assumption, and the whole ef- 
fect of the interior is that of a duplicate of the 
last named. It constitutes but one more "em- 
barrassment du richesse." 

The monastery close at hand is almost as 
wonderful; a temple of gold and silver. But 
we specially admired the Treasury House in 
the right wing of the palace. Here are de- 
posited the venerable historical objects of the 
reigning house of Russia; the royal plate, the 
pearls, the diamonds, the rubies; all the thrones 
of the former and present emperors and em- 
presses; their coronation robes, the royal car- 
riages, the crowns. One crown alone, the gift 
of the Shah of Persia in 1604, contains 2,200 
rubies and pearls. I saw here an orb which, if 
it ever had any use, must have been chiefly to 
prove the reckless prodigality of the old Rom- 
anoff princes, for it was studded with 58 dia- 
monds, 89 rubies, 23 sapphires, 50 emeralds, 
and 37 pearls! And, in another crown, used 
by the Empress Anne, but originally made for 



The Old Russian Capital. 107 

Catherine I., by order of Peter the Great, the 
diamonds in it numbered 2,536! And vases oi 
vermeil, tables of silver, placques of other 
precious metals and similar articles, innumer- 
able, incalculable in value, of no use save to 
look at, are in this Treasury House. 

From here one passes around to and enters 
the Palace proper, to describe which in the 
space allotted me would be impossible. There 
are three halls in the Palace, either one of 
which would seem to put to blush even that ex- 
ceedingly beautiful hall in the Winter Palace 
at St. Petersburg, known as the Nicholas ball- 
room. They are, first, the Hall of St. George, 
two hundred feet long and of proportionate 
width, the rooms all in gold and white, with ex- 
quisite hardwood floors and walls inscribed in 
gold with the thousands of names of the mem- 
bers of the order. It has crystal chandeliers 
holding 3,200 candles. The next is the Alex- 
ander Hall, only half as long, but lignted by 
4,500 candles; a room in pink and gold, filled 
with gorgeous paintings. The third is the Hall 
of St. Andrew, fluted like a Gothic cathedral, 
whose walls are gold and pale blue, and at 
whose end are two thrones of the Emperor and 
Empress, the steps to which are covered with 
a carpet of cloth of gold. This Palace is onlv 



108 From America to Russia. 

fifty years old and its present use may be 
guessed at rather than understood. 

At the foot of the Ivan Tower lies what is 
known as the Great Bell of Moscow, otherwise 
called the "King- of Bells," which was cast 
in 1733 from an older bell of 1654, which itself 
was cast from a bell of 1633, which was per- 
haps itself a child of the bell of 1553, the first 
large Russian bell of which we have any 
record. Its weight is about 400,000 tons. It 
stands more than twenty-six feet high, and 
is over twenty-two feet in diameter, with a 
broken piece, seven feet high and weighing 
eleven tons, along its side. The tradition is 
that the ladies of Moscow threw into the liquid 
metal so many jewels and other treasures that 
there was an imperfection in the last casting, 
but whether from this reason or from the fall- 
ing of heavy rafters in a fire in 1737, it is cer- 
tain that soon after it was cast it fell to the 
ground and was quite buried out of sight for 
almost a century. In 1836 Nicholas I. lifted it 
upon a pedestal, and there it stands as one of 
the wonders of the world. 

I can but allude to some of the 450 other 
churches outside the Kremlin. There is the 
cathedral of St. Basil, whose exterior is half bar- 
baric, like a Hindoo pagoda, full of cupolas 




Cathedral of St. Basil, Moscow. 

Built to commemorate the " prophet and worker c.f miracles," St. Basil, 
(also known as the " patron of idiots''*, who was buried on this spot, A.D. 
15.52. Three years later this edifice was begun, the architect being an 
Italian, who. tradition says, had his eyes put out bv order of Ivan IV., 
" in order that he should not build another edifice like it."' In both ex- 
terior and interior architecture it is one of the most curious structures 
in Russia. The colors of its domes are as numerous as those of the 
rainbow. 



The Old Russian Capital. 109 

carved to the resemblance of pineapples, 
melons, artichokes and other odd designs, and 
colored with the several colors of the rainbow. 
It is as beautiful as a dream and as crazy as its 
patron saint. Directly in front of the St. Basil, 
as if to give plenty of space to a spot whose as- 
sociations must be forever hideous, is the Red 
Square, once a veritable field of blood. Here 
is the circular stone from which the iron edicts 
of the Czars were proclaimed and here were the 
eighteen gibbets erected by Ivan when he kept 
his instruments of torture at deadly work. 
Here Peter the Great beheaded the Streltsi 
conspirators. The square has two redeeming 
features aside from the cathedral — the New 
Bazaar, to be spoken of hereafter, and the Re- 
deemer Gate to the Kremlin, architecturally 
graceful, and upon which is the picture of 
Christ, known as the "Redeemer of Smolensk," 
before which every head, even that of the Czar 
himself, must uncover, if its possessor is to 
pass beneath the portal. The "pious" Russians 
kiss the pavement beneath it; we honored their 
custom by removing our hats. 

Probably the most wonderful object archi- 
tecturally, at least as viewed from a distance, is 
the Church of the Saviour, built to commemo- 
rate the deliverance of Moscow from the 



no From America to Russia. 

French invasion. It is of white stone, with 
four belfrys, each surmounted by a golden cu- 
pola, and over the whole rises an immense gilt 
dome. The building is large enough to hold 
7,000 persons and up to the highest parts it at- 
tains the height of three hundred and fifty feet. 
I did not get to it nor enter it, an omission I 
now regret. Nor did any of us, I think, enter 
the picture galleries or museums of the city, 
all of which were modern, but immense in size, 
and of most interesting architecture. 

A still greater loss than these, however, was 
our inability to visit and to study the battle- 
mented walls and the interior, six-domed 
churches of the Novo Devitchi Convent, whose 
perspective was so attractive when viewed from 
Sparrow Hill. As a mere harmony of archi- 
tectural colors, it was bewitching, and I am 
told the red bell-towers and green roofs, yel- 
low crosses, and light blue frescoes were not 
mere colors, but actual artistic achievements. 
Perhaps it was as well we did not get nearer, 
for, beside the beautiful buildings, we should 
have had pointed out to us the house of sad 
Sophia, Peter the Great's sister, who, while 
imprisoned there, looked out from her window 
upon the hanging in cold blood of the two 
hundred conspirators, who were first tortured 



The Old Russian Capital. in 

and then swung up, because they had the bad 
judgment to oppose tyranny and sigh for 
liberty. Surely all the marvelous gorgeous- 
ness of the Novo Devitchi cannot save its as- 
sociations with the history of unjudicial 
murders. 

We saw in Moscow some of the dirtiest and 
most repulsive of the Russians, who, were they 
Tartars or otherwise, deepened our conviction 
that to keep such in repression required a 
strong government ; an ordinary form of mon- 
archy would scarcely subserve the interests of 
public order in Russia. And, strange to say, 
we saw some of the same greasy-looking beg- 
gars, whose feet were in burlap, with unkempt 
head and dress, and packs upon their backs, 
shown through the Treasury House in the pal- 
ace with almost the same courtesy that was ex- 
tended to visitors of intelligence and culture. 
They had simply to leave their packs at the 
door and were ushered by officials before the 
elegant thrones and through the sumptuous 
halls as if they had been millionaires. 

Moscow shops had enormous signs, none of 
-them containing a word which we had ever 
seen before. There was the big New Bazaar, 
the finest externally and the largest in dimen- 
sions within I ever remember to have seen 



ii-' From America to Russia. 

covering, perhaps, four ordinary American 
city blocks; a white building of stone, 
three stories high, where everything (but 
what you desire) is sold. The markets 
contained provisions not at all dear; but 
living is high in Russia because of the 
enormous taxes and correspondingly enor- 
mous rents. The Tartar drivers of droskies 
seemed to be distinguishable by feathers in 
their hats, but I judge the majority of that wild 
clan were to be found among the commoner 
laborers who drove the brick wagons, which 
usually line the streets and which come in from 
the country. On one of the streets we saw 
scores, if not hundreds, of sucii wagons, prov- 
ing that building operations in Moscow are a^ 
extensive as elsewhere. 

And now, lastly, as to the one trip we took 
away from the Kremlin. We shall always re- 
member it in connection with this city — the 
drive out to Sparrow Hill. That is an emi- 
nence some two miles or more beyond the 
tower-crested rim of the city, to the west, and 
is the spot from which Napoleon first had 
sisdit of the fevered mirage of his soul — Mos- 
cow. It was from that hill he attained, or 
within twenty-four hours afterward, the sum- 
mit of his ambition, and from it, on his retreat, 




, The King of Bells, Moscow. 

Cast in 1733, under Empress Anne, but fell do*vn in four years' tinie, 
and, ninety-nine years later, (1816) Nicholas I had it erected on a pedes- 
tal beside* the Ivan Tower, where it now stands. Total weight about 
400,000 pounds ; weight of the broken piece about 22,000 pounds _ 

(Photo, by M. Estil.) 



The Old Russian Capital. 1 1 3 

heard the echoes of his downfall. To reach 
this spot, we drove over about four miles of 
the cobblestone pavement, which, let me again 
repeat it, is the worst on earth. Succeeding it, 
while in a totally exhausted condition from the 
noise and shake-up, we encountered a stretch 
of dust three inches deep. As our carriages 
followed each other closely, we simply "choked 
to death," and only had resurrection when 
Sparrow Hill was announced. That ride was 
something so dreadful upon nerves and lungs 
that it required superhuman courage to resolve 
to return at all to the capital, or to our hotel. 
We felt it in our bones, spine, hips, feet, head, 
and I cannot wonder that no person of our 
brave twenty-five had courage enough later to 
visit Novo Devitchi. 

Nevertheless, the beauteous outburst of the 
unrivalled view repaid us. We should never 
take it again— by drosky— just as we should 
never go to Moscow again, unless invited to 
do so after an inexorable law put in force 
had sweetened its unsavoriness. But here 
we did see, once, Moscow as a panorama of 
superlative beauty. As we watched it from 
the side of the setting sun, it was like an Arab- 
ian Night's dream; like the heavenly Jerusalem 
let down from above, set with starry thrones, 



1 14 From America to Russia. 

having gates of jasper and temples of gold. 
Everything of the disagreeable for the moment 
dropped out of mind, and here was the revered 
Mecca, one sight of which compels the Russian 
peasant, when approaching it, to drop quickly 
down upon his knees, and, with hat off, to cross 
himself with the most holy emotions! 

A. V. D. Honeyman. 




XII. 
OUR LONGEST RAILWAY JOURNEY. 

THE architectural ornaments of Moscow 
were too aerial for us; something on 
our own level would have been ac- 
cepted with greater pleasure. If the streets 
had been gilded, instead of the churches, we 
might have felt more at ease. Nevertheless, 
many were the regrets expressed, when, on the 
evening of August n, we took our departure 
from this portion of the Czar's dominion. 

The hurry of seeing that the baggage was 
in the proper position, and the numerous en- 
deavors to find our individual compartments 
in the railway coaches, prevented us from real- 
izing that this was the last stopping place on 
strictly Russian territory, but as the train sped 
westward we turned to take a farewell glance 
at the city we had just left. Our gaze was riv- 



n6 From America to Russia. 

eted on one stupendous structure, whose mas- 
sive domes rose from the gathering twilight, 
and cut their silhouettes against the golden 
light of declining day. This monument, stand- 
ing as if to guard Moscow from all future in- 
truders, was the 'Temple of the Saviour," the 
"House of God," whose marble columns were 
carved in blood, and whose walls were reared 
to commemorate the sacrifice of human lives. 

In three or four hours' time, between the 
long- lines of berths and the odor of carbolic, 
the car reminded us of a "hospital on wheels," 
but our jovial porter (whose Russian blarney 
would shame an Irishman), succeeded in mak- 
ing our quarters as comfortable as possible, and 
we retired early, some to dream, maybe, of 
Pullman sleepers; others perhaps of our desti- 
nation, which seemed so far in the distance. 
There was no dreaming and very little sleep- 
ing done that night, for at different scations 
along the route no less than nine Russians 
walked in and deposited themselves and bag- 
gage in that private car. Numerous demon- 
strations had no effect, neither would authori- 
tative sentences hurled in plain English move 
them, and we were obliged to eject them by 
force. Whether they came to the conclusion 
that the Czar was traveling "incog.," or a party 



Our Longest Railway Journey. 1 1 7 

of anarchical strangers were speeding chrongh 
the country, they finally gave the American 
part of the train a wide berth and retired to 
the rear. 

The next morning, to our surprise and as- 
tonishment, every one was found literally 
buried beneath a layer of dust an inch in thick- 
ness, which had blown in through open doors 
and windows. If we had been 011 the Empire 
State express, running at seventy-five miles in- 
stead of one at the rate of thirty an hour, no 
one could have foretold what a tragedy might 
have occurred. The couches, which had 
looked so white and clean the previous even- 
ing, were now of a brownish hue, while the 
members of the party — well! they also had 
taken on the appearance of Russian pilgrims 
to Tartar shrines. 

Astonishment is not a lasting numbness, and 
soon cries of "Dust my coat off," or "Send 
me a brush," were heard from all sides. Ten, 
twenty and even thirty kopeks were offered to 
those who would consent. Hereafter when we 
journey over the steppes of Russia it will be 
during a snowy winter, when the experience of 
being buried in furs, instead of dust, and 
warmly ensconced in a sleigh instead of a 



n8 From America to Russia. 

night train, will appeal more strongly to the 
American taste. 

Reading and sleeping, alternately, with an 
occasional whisk broom accompaniment, 
passed the hours by, pleasantly for some. 
The more active members amused themselves 
by running to the doors at every town, and 
shouting in rapid and forcible German the 
usual question: 

"Wie viel minuten bleiben, wie hier?" and 
whether they were answered or not, rushing 
pell-mell into the boufTet for soda-water and 
fruit cakes. "First come, first served," is the 
motto of those restaurants, and often the good 
and appetizing dainties would have disappeared 
before the less energetic ones had reached the 
scene of eating, and, at the third stroke of a 
bell, go off, with perhaps only a cheese sand- 
wich. 

These labored efforts soon ended, for at half- 
past ten P. M., nearly thirty hours after leav- 
ing Moscow, we entered the Polish city which 
was to be our home for a full day, and were 
driven rapidly from the station to the 
"Waldorf of Warsaw." 

It was not long before the voice of the pro- 
prietor, calling out in loud and guttural ac- 
cents, "Mrs. M. and the Misses M., Rooms 54 



Our Longest Railway Journey. 119 

and 55," brought us to the overpowering reali- 
zation that our railroad journey was ended. 
If we had remained another night aboard that 
sleeper those rusty sheets might have been 
again in evidence. There is no accounting for 
national peculiarities; all the gesticulating one 
might do would never make a Moscovite do 
otherwise than what he first intended. A 
bland smile is his only acquiescence; a shake 
of the head his only reply. 

Our removal to the Hotel de l'Europe was 
a timely proceeding. The utter bewilderment 
of a hotel retinue when we chanced upon it 
was remarkable. It may have been the late- 
ness of the hour, or the dazzling brilliancy of 
the red seals emblazoned on trunks, bags, and 
canvas rolls; in any event, this night, in par- 
ticular, the employes seemed to lose their 
heads so entirely that an essayed pursuit of 
these unsuspecting natives was the only way 
that the owner of any hand luggage could get 
his share taken to his respective suite. 

In regard to "Warszawa" itself, I cannot 
begin to extol its beauties. Those who have 
been there can judge for themselves of its at- 
tractiveness; those who have not could never 
appreciate what I might here relate. Suffice 



120 From America to Russia. 

it to say, that this former capital, which was for 
generations the contesting ground of antag- 
onistic countries, now compares favorably with 
any modernized city in the northern section of 
the continent. Though under the Czar's rule, 
the Poles abhor, and will not even mention, 
anything that is Russian. It seems raiher 
sad to the representatives of a free land to see 
Poland subjugated by a foreign emperor, and 
the independence of its people forever crushed. 
We left Warsaw with the anticipation that 
ere the morning of another day had dawned, 
we would have reached the German frontier. 
All hieroglyphical scrawls would have disap- 
peared, and our passports, the bones not of 
contention, but of detention, would be scat- 
tered to the four winds, to fly as a sign to all 
those who there entered, that passports are a 
necessary means of admission. Still we lin- 
gered on the threshold of the Russian Empire 
to think that although it stands foremost 
among the nations of Europe, against the 
stoicism of whose defenders the forces of no 
united kingdoms can prevail, whose naval and 
maritime strongholds command the world, yet 
there was one event in its history which stirred 
the cities of the Czar and the inhabitants 



Our Longest Railway Journey. 121 

thereof into intense excitement. It was the ar- 
rival of a party of twenty-five American 
visitors. 

Evelyn Ranlett Mason. 





XIII. 



BERLIN AND ITS ENVIRONS. 



IN the early dawn of a dull gray morning, 
Saturday, August 14, 1897, the train from 
Warsaw reached the Friedrich Strasse 
station in the city of Berlin, and from it alighted 
the large majority of the Honeyman party. 
What had become of the others? In their anx- 
iety to speedily terminate a long, tiresome ride, 
and a sleepless night, three had jumped off with 
bag and baggage at a suburban station, and 
the rest of us were now concerned as to when 
and how the manager would regain possession 
of them. 

To retrace a little. When leaving Warsaw the 
previous afternoon it was believed that we 
would obtain a sleeping-car at Alexandrovo. 
But, alas, for human hopes! The sleeper was 
not to be obtained, and, worse than all, those 



Berlin and Its Environs. 123 

of us who, by the paid favor of a train guard, 
had been assigned comfortable first-class com- 
partments with the understanding that we 
should occupy them to Berlin if a sleeper were 
not secured, were ignominiously and with dis- 
patch ushered out at this same Alexandrovo, 
to find second-class compartments as best we 
could. It was bad enough to fail in securing 
sleeping accommodations; it was adding insult 
to injury to be ejected from the quarters we 
had fairly secured to meet hiat emergency. 

It was in this shuffle that our friends became 
separated from the rest of the party, and it 
was their anxiety to terminate so uncomfort- 
able a journey, and their lack of familiarity 
with the German tongue and the city of Ber- 
lin, which occasioned their premature disem- 
barkation. 

But "all's well that ends well." We learned 
at the station that a train from the point at 
which they had alighted would soon follow u& 
in; and so, with anxious expectancy, we sum- 
moned our Job-like qualities and stood guard 
about our ever-present luggage and awaited 
on the platform the coming of that train. A 
train did soon arrive, but our friends were not 
on it. A second one speedily followed, and 
then we found and welcomed them. 



124 From America to Russia. 

Once fairly started toward the hotel, Ameri- 
can inquisitiveness began to forge to the front, 
and we began to look about us to see where we 
were and to learn what we could. Down the 
Friedrich Strasse we drove, and the large and 
substantial and fine buildings on either side 
drew our attention. One, who had seen Ber- 
lin before, remarked: "There is something 
about the appearance of this city which always 
reminds me of New York." To this a lady 
quickly responded: "Well, if Berlin is like 
New York, then I like it; but the dark atmos- 
phere now rather reminds me of Chicago." 
That carriage load unanimously concluded, 
however, that, whether like New York or Chi- 
cago, or both, Berlin was entitled to and should 
receive hearty approval. And, as if to toast us 
for that sentiment, our attention was just then 
drawn to a large corner saloon, with a win- 
dow conspicuously advertising "American 
Drinks." 

Emerging into Unter den Linden, with its 
broader vista and brighter air, our spirits rose 
still higher, and we reached the Hotel du Nord 
in good humor, prepared to accept any reason- 
able disposition of us that might be made. 
But even an angelic mood is hardly proof 
against being assigned to the rear end of the 



Berlin and Its Environs. 125 

top floor in a house where no "ascenseur" is 
to be found; and so there were some demands 
and firm protestations until desired changes 
were made. The accommodating spirit of the 
affable portier was then gratefully acknowl- 
edged and all was again serene. 

Just here, why is it that landlords so gener- 
ally assign the incoming guests to the most 
undesirable rooms? Are they so constituted 
that they must first gauge American travelers 
by such an ordeal? Or is it a part of their 
business to endeavor first to dispose of the 
rooms one would not seek? It would seem 
that a contrary course would be the wiser, 
would please the guests better, would save the 
landlord annoyance and trouble, and would 
preserve the amiability of both. It would then 
be as it should be, first come, best served; and 
late comers could have no good ground for 
complaint. 

A hasty toilet followed by a good breakfast 
put all in fair condition, mentally and physi- 
cally, for the day. A necessary preliminary 
to active work yet demanded attention — a visit 
to the Dresdner Bank, or to the office 
of a representative of Messrs. Henry Gaze & 
Sons, for cash. At the latter place we were 
charged a commission for cashing trav- 



126 From America to Russia. 

clers checks — an unwarranted commission. 
And it was done in such a deceptive 
way as to convince us that it was a deliberately 
planned imposition. 

When one comes to record the doings of but 
a single day, how many little incidents are 
noted, trivial in themselves, perhaps, but in- 
volving important principles and influencing 
the habits and lives of people. 

Now, however, we were at last ready for 
action, and it was thought advisable, particu- 
larly since the threatening early hours had 
now brought the dampening rain, to visit the 
palaces so conveniently near. A few of us 
took a guide, the only one the hotel could give 
us at the moment, whose employment no one 
would subsequently admit, and we paraded 
first (and last as it proved) to the residence of 
the late Emperor William. This building, so full 
of warm interest by reason of the personality 
of that admirable man, is now little more than 
a storehouse for the bric-a-brac, and photo- 
graphs, and furniture, and presents of that 
household. A peculiar interest attaches to 
that window made historical by the Emperor's 
habit of there appearing to the view of his ad- 
miring subjects; and the again and again re- 
peated echoes, to more than a score of times, 



Berlin and Its Environs. 127 

of the concert or music hall were wonderful 
and interesting. Apart from these two items 
little of interest was found. It may be that the 
slowness, age, weak voice and listless man- 
ner of our guide were largely responsible for 
this. At all events when we emerged from 
that palace, all by common consent, and with- 
out a word, demurely retraced steps to the 
hotel, and palace-seeing was abandoned. 

The Berlin stores pioved unusually attrac- 
tive, and great were the planning and hunting 
and bargaining for those numerous little things 
which would as gifts to friends at home prove 
that they were not forgotten by us, although 
so far away. And in this pleasant occupation 
our friend from "way down in Maine" here 
discovered the greatest novelty of all, one in 
which the ladies took an interest and even in- 
vested some funds, to wit, a patent cork-screw, 
which is not a screw at all, although it effectu- 
ally does the work of one, but which looks 
like, what one of our home friends insisted it 
must be, a whistle, or mouth-organ, or some 
kind of a musical instrument. Its mysteries 
explained and a trial of its utility made, it was 
discovered that the only music it can produce 
is that of the suddenly released cork. 

"Unter den Linden" was a disappointment. 



128 From America to Russia. 

Not that it is not a fine city street, but that it 
is no finer than many others, and not nearly 
so attractive and pretty as some. Wilhelm 
Strasse, where several of the princes and for- 
eign ambassadors reside, and Friedrich Strasse 
and Leipziger Strasse are prettier streets. The 
lindens are not choice specimens, the roadways 
are not the best paved— one side is but cob- 
bled; the walks under the trees are neither 
smooth nor clean, and the buildings generally 
are of no special merit. There are points of 
beauty and interest along the street, but taken 
as a whole it is disappointing. 

The palaces present no specially attractive 
features. This is particularly the case with the 
one used by the present Emperor. It looks as 
though a good New England house-cleaning, 
inside and out, were greatly needed. This is 
due in part to its age, partly to the dark stone 
employed in its construction, and partly to the 
dirt and smoke of that great city. In front of 
this palace are a very fine monument and semi- 
circular peristyle, not yet entirely completed, 
erected by the nation in memory of Emperor 
William the Great. At the side of the palace 
is the Palace Spring Fountain, a large, unique, 
and attractive work. The Monument of Vic- 
tory and the Brandenburg gate are also beauti- 



Berlin and Its Environs. 129 

ful works of art, and the new Parliament build- 
ing is large and handsome. Many fine monu- 
ments are scattered throughout the city, and 
parks and gardens and squares are numerous 
and attractive. 

The Thiergarten is particularly so. It is a 
very large forest, as dense as in some mountain 
wild, almost in the heart of the city, with broad 
avenues cut out and lakes scattered here and 
there. By stepping only a few feet off from a 
busy street one can there find the shade and 
seclusion of a virgin forest. 

Schools, academies and colleges abound, 
and galleries and museums for every art and 
treasure are on every hand. The education of 
the people in all useful, elevating, historical, 
and technical branches is amply provided for 
and encouraged. It is, therefore, no wonder 
that German mentality and cultivation are so 
high. 

But what should be said about the beer gar- 
dens, so numerous and so extensive? They 
form part of the life and business, and of the 
education also, of the city, and are rendered as 
attractive and bright as lights and music and 
flowers can make them. And not gardens 
only, but halls also, large and airy, and brilliant 
in colors and illumination. And yet, with them 



130 From America to Russia. 

all, one sees less intemperance than can be wit- 
nessed nearly every day in almost any one ot 
onr numerous American barrooms. Why is 
this? 

Poverty is not in evidence in Berlin. If it 
docs exist — and it is hardly possible that it does 
not — it is well hidden. Not a single mendicant 
was seen. A comprehensive drive in both the 
old and new parts of the city, and extending 
into the suburbs, and walks around by day and 
night, disclosed no poor quarter. The people 
dress nicely, look clean and tidy, appear indus- 
trious, and deport themselves in a most re- 
spectable manner. The city is altogether beau- 
tiful, and apparently prosperous and pro- 
gressive. 

A drive to Charlottenburg is inviting, and a 
visit to the mausoleum in the garden of the 
Royal Palace should not be omitted. The 
sculptured figures upon the sarcophagi of the 
illustrious dead are wonderful masterpieces, 
and the marble drapery is simply a marvel ot 
the sculptor's art. While waiting for the ap- 
pearance of the official who issues the tickets of 
admission to the mausoleum, we were con- 
siderably entertained by the maneuvers of the 
soldiers on duty at that point. The guards 
were about being changed, and the relief was 



Berlin and Its Environs. 13 r 

marshaled in front of the barracks. When the 
order to march was given the men started off 
with such a quick, high, jerky step that it was 
for all the world as if they had been prodded 
unexpectedly in the rear with a sharp bayonet, 
or were endeavoring to kick a receding foe in 
front of them. The spectator was unable at 
the moment to tell whether the movement 
would develop into a run or subside into a 
recognized march. The latter proved to be 
the case, but the reason for such a movement 
at all is obscure. 

A visit to Berlin must always include a trip 
to Potsdam. That busy town with its royal 
castle, extensive barracks, historical lime tree, 
the Friedens-Kirche, and the park and palace 
of Sans Souci and the new palace is both at- 
tractive and instructive. No one can look 
upon the old lime tree, so carefully preserved 
and protected, without an accompanying men- 
tal vision of the suppliants who there from 
time to time made known to Frederick the 
Great their various wants and grievances, and 
implored his aid and intervention. And then 
going to the old wind mill, another picture of a 
totally different type is presented, and we view 
the sturdy old owner persisting in and insisting 
upon his individual rights against the 



132 From America to Russia. 

desire and the temptation of the prof- 
fered gold of the same famous potentate, 
and thereby retaining the ownership and 
possession of his chosen property. Can 
it be doubted that the sovereign, not- 
withstanding his disappointment, really en- 
tertained in consequence more consideration 
and greater respect for that subject? It was 
but a notable exhibition of that manly inde- 
pendence which must be the basis of all good 
and stable government. 

The great fountain in the park is fine, but 
the view from it up the six great terraces to the 
palace of Sans Souci is a prettier sight. The 
flowers and fruit and shrubbery on these ter- 
races are so abundant as to completely hide 
the soil upon and against which they stand, and 
are so carefully tended and trained, and so 
bright and various in colors as to form a beau- 
tiful foundation of great height upon which 
the palace appears to rest. And a view from 
the palace over the park discloses a pretty 
landscape. The palace itself is not beautiful, 
and in character reminds one rather of the 
long, low, rambling buildings of the negro 
quarters of a southern plantation "befo' de 
wah." It is quite near to this palace that the 
old wind mill stands, and then the Orangery, 



Berlin and Its Environs. 133 

Paradise Garden, Japanese House, Italian 
Villa and the Mausoleum follow. At the rear 
of the palace, up the steep ascent, leading di- 
rectly to the center of the building, is the road 
by which Napoleon entered, and he occupied 
rooms in the Royal Castle in the town. 

Not far from Sans Souci is the New Palace, 
now occupied by the royal family. It is very 
large, decidedly Dutch in its architecture and 
wholly unattractive in appearance. The in- 
terior is in no respect equal to the Russian 
palaces at St. Petersburg and Moscow. The 
only apartment worthy of special note is the 
shell room, which is large and unique in style, 
and built entirely of shells and small pieces of 
valuable stones arranged in odd and quaint de- 
signs. It is here, we are told, that the family 
hold their Christmas and other similar festivi- 
ties. 

It was a surprise to us all to see in Berlin 
the exceedingly large grounds of the Grecian 
Embassy, and we could but wonder how so 
small a country came to have so extensive a 
foothold there, and what effect, if any, such 
exhibition of that foreign power had on the 
action of Germany with reference to the Cretan 
troubles. 

In Moscow we had marveled when we found 



134 From America to Russia. 

the edges of the under sheets on our beds well 
filled with buttonholes, and the edges of the 
quilts above us well supplied with buttons; but 
one of our ladies solved the enigma by declar- 
ing the purpose to be to button the occupant 
in at night. At Warsaw we found the upper 
sheet nicely buttoned some six or eight inches 
over the edges of the quilts. And in Berlin 
we failed at first to find any quilt at all on the 
beds, but finally discovered it completely cov- 
ered and buttoned in the upper sheet, as is a 
pillow in its case. We thought if this pro- 
gressive habit should follow us to Amsterdam 
that we would there find bed and all 
encased securely in some novel garment. 
But we left the custom at Berlin, for- 
tunately, where the difficulty of extract- 
ing a heavy quilt from its case, in order 
to leave only sufficient covering for a summer 
night, was so great after the fatigue of a day's 
sight-seeing or shopping that we had no long- 
ing for further similar experiences. 

Of the exactions of the Custom House offi- 
cials and their aversion to paper and predilec- 
tion for cotton and linen goods others can 
speak (if not permitted to write) with more 
knowledge and feeling. Likewise regarding 
the attractions of the Apollo Theatre and the 



Berlin and Its Environs. 135 

Panopticum. The Raths-Keller, noted as one 
of the sights of Berlin, is not to be compared, 
except in extent, with that in the Betz building 
in Philadelphia. And here it was that the Teu- 
ton of our party sought to use his knowledge 
of the German tongue for the benefit of him- 
self and friends, called a waiter, and, with 
great deliberation and distinctness, so that 
even we almost understood his words, gave an 
order for some refreshments. The waiter 
smiled and, with great politeness and in the 
best English, replied, "If you would like to 
learn to speak German, come to my house to- 
morrow morning and I will give you a lesson." 
It proved that he had no ear for "Pennsylvania 
Dutch;" and we discovered that he had spent 
several years in America. And this was not 
the only incident of such a character during 
our trip. 

The cab drivers are numerous, capable, and 
accommodating. They are so anxious to 
please, that one, I am told, with a lady and a 
gentleman for a fare, who positively declined 
all the attractions of theater and museum and 
garden he tendered them, finally concluded 
that they must be seeking only the society 
and peculiar attractions of each other, 
and he thereupon drove them slowly and 



136 From America to Russia. 

carefully in side streets and shaded lanes, 
and the dark roads of the parks, without 
a word from them, or a glance back at them, 
until they at last woke to the fact that cabby 
was "on to their little game." Then, by using 
a mixture of English and French, and Penn- 
sylvania Dutch, in all which no word of grati- 
tude was found, they eventually succeeded in 
being driven to their hotel. Ungrateful 
wretches. Wonder who they were! 

We were delighted to reach Berlin and en- 
joyed every moment of our sojourn there. 
We left it early Tuesday morning, August 17, 
with considerable regret. It is altogether an 
interesting city. We found the Hotel du Nord 
to be conveniently located and well managed, 
with an excellent table and accommodating 
officials. Our hope is that we may be able to 
visit Berlin again under equally pleasant cir- 
cumstances and for a longer stay. 

Nathaniel Ewing. 




XIV. 
A DAY IN AMSTERDAM. 

AFTER a pleasant trip of almost 400 
miles from Berlin through the ever- 
changing stretches of delightful coun- 
try, we arrived, August 17, at the Central Rail- 
way station on the "Y" in Amsterdam, on the 
north side of the city, at 8:27 P. M., and were 
soon comfortably quartered in the large and 
commodious "Victoria Hotel," near by, at the 
corner of the Damrak and Prins Hendrikkade. 
Here we did full justice to an elegant dinnei 
that had been prepared and was waiting for 
us, and for which our long trip had most suc- 
cessfully prepared our party, except a few of 
us with delicate appetites. * The next day it 
rained— the first rainy day of our experience 
abroad. 

Amsterdam, the commercial capital of Hoi- 



13^ From America to Russia. 

land, is said to be as good as Venice, with a 
super-added humor which gives the sightseer 
the most singular zest and pleasure. You can 
scarcely fancy a run through Pekin to be more 
odd, strange and yet familiar. There were 
perceptible a rush and prodigious vitality; an 
immense swarm of life, busy waters crowded 
with barges, spacious markets teeming with 
people, the ever-wonderful Jew's quarter, a 
"dear old world of painting and of the past," 
yet alive and throbbing and palpable, actual 
and yet passing before you swiftly and strange- 
ly as a dream. 

This wonderful city lies at the influx of the 
Amstel into the "Y" or "IJ," which is an arm 
of the Zuiderzee, which has been form-d into 
an excellent harbor. The town was founded 
at the beginning of the Thirteenth Century, 
when Gysbrecht II. built a castle here in 1204 
and constructed the dam, which gave the town 
its name. In 1275 Count Florens V. granted 
the town exemption from the imposts of Hol- 
land and Zeeland, and in 131 1 it was finally 
united with Holland. In the Fourteenth Cen- 
tury the town began to assume greater im- 
portance, and at the beginning of the Spanish 
troubles it had become a very important city. 
In 1490 the Emperor Maximilian I. gave the 



A Day in Amsterdam. 139 

city the privilege of using the imperial crown 
as the crest in its armorial bearings. 

The real importance and prosperity of Ams- 
terdam date from the close of the Sixteenth 
Century, when the Spanish war had mined 
Antwerp, and the horrors of the inquisition 
had compelled numbers of enterprising mer- 
chants and skillful manufacturers to seek a 
new home in Holland. Between 1585 and 
1595 the town was nearly doubled in extent 
and was greatly favored by Prince Maurice 
of Orange. The conclusion of peace shortly 
afterward and the establishment of the East 
India Company combined to raise Amsterdam 
within a very short period to the rank of the 
greatest mercantile city on the continent. 
After the dissolution of the Dutch Republic, 
Amsterdam became the residence of King 
Louis Napoleon, in 1808. The population 
now is about 500,000. The commercial trade 
of Amsterdam is very important, though the 
number of ships that enter and clear the har- 
bor is scarcely a third of that at Antwerp. 

Its industries are also considerable, includ- 
ing sugar and camphor refineries, tobacco and 
cobalt-blue manufactories, and diamond pol- 
ishing mills. The principal attractions of 
Amsterdam are Rijks Museum, Fodor Mu- 



140 From America to Russia. 

seum, Zoological Gardens, walks on the De 
Ruyterkade, Oosterdok, and Westerdok; the 
Delft depot and Kalverstraat, the principal 
shopping- street, which leads southward from 
"The Dam" and is one of the chief thorough- 
fares of the city, notwithstanding its entire 
width is little, if any more than just the side- 
walks of some of the streets in New York and 
other of our American cities. After nine P. M. 
this street becomes the scene of a kind of Corso 
or promenade, occupied and used almost ex- 
clusively by pedestrians. 

By reason of canals running through the 
business streets of the city, it is divided into 
ninety islands, which are connected by nearly 
300 bridges. The depth of the water in these 
canals is about five feet, below which is said 
to be a layer of mud of about equal thickness. 
To prevent malarial exhalations the water is 
renewed by an arm of the North Sea Canal, 
while the mud is removed by dredges. Some 
of the canals are lined with avenues of elms 
and present a pleasant, and in places a hand- 
some and picturesque appearance. The houses 
are all constructed on foundations of piles, a 
fact which gave rise to the jest of Erasmus of 
Rotterdam, that he knew a city whose inhabit- 
ants dwelt in the tops of trees like rooks. The 



A Day in Amsterdam. 141 

upper stratum of the natural soil is loose sand 
upon which no permanent building can be. 
erected, unless a solid substructure be first 
formed by driving piles about twenty feet long 
into the firmer sand beneath. The operations 
of the builder below the surface of the ground 
are frequently as expensive as those above it. 

The focus of the business life of the city is 
a large square called "The Dam." It owes its 
name to its position on the west side of the 
old embankment with which the foundation 
and name of the city are traditionally con- 
nected. It is surrounded by the Exchange, 
the Royal Palace, the New Church, and several 
private homes, and is the center from which 
the principal tramways and streets diverge. 
Of the buildings surrounding the square the 
Royal Palace (Het Paleis) is the most impos- 
ing and important. It was begun in 1648 as 
a town hall and substantially finished in 1655 
at a cost of 8,000,000 florins. 

It rests on a foundation of 13,659 piles, aboui 
twenty feet long. It was presented by the city 
to King Louis Napoleon as a residence in 
1808. It was by reason of its location well 
adapted for a town hall, but, having no princi- 
pal entrance and being situated in the open 
market place, it is unsuitable for a palace. All 



142 I ; rom America to Russia. 

the apartments are richly adorned with sculp- 
tures in white marble, which produce an im- 
posing effect. It is one of the grand homes 
of Wilhelmina, the popular Queen of Holland. 

We were fortunate on all sides in our oppor- 
tunities of seeing nobility and royalty; how- 
ever, but a few of our party were so happily 
favored as to have a view of Queen Wilhel- 
mina, than whom no royal princess of the 
present age has been discussed with more in- 
terest, nor has been more of a puzzle to the 
diplomats of Europe. She is young, talented, 
accomplished, beautiful, of unequaled lineage, 
and the sovereign of 35,000,000 of people. 
All the crowned heads of Europe consider her 
a prize well worth striving for; and no wonder 
that every princeling desires to become a con- 
sort to such a queen. And with such accom- 
plishments we are not certain, but that, with 
sufficient encouragement, other than prince- 
lings might be induced to turn their heads and 
hearts in that direction. 

This young princess is not yet Queen. She 
will assume that dignity upon attaining her 
eighteenth year, which will be August 31, 
1898. The name of Queen Wilhelmina is 
everywhere spoken with enthusiasm. Three 
centuries of tradition; three hundred years of 



A Day in Amsterdam. 143 

all that is grand and glorious in the history of 
this proud Empire center in their Virgin 
Queen. Her picture is seen everywhere, and it 
is said that half of the girl babies in the coun- 
try are called Wilhelmina. 

It is not commonly known that Holland 
claims to be the second colonial power in the 
world. This is the secret of her present pros- 
perity. The average wealth of each citizen is 
three times as much as that of England. To 
the Queen of this Empire is given an annual 
salary of two .hundred thousand dollars, every 
cent of which is spent by the young princess 
in the cause of charity. Of course, she can 
well afford to do without this salary, as she is 
said to be one of the richest sovereigns in the 
world, being sole heir to the entire wealth of 
the Empire and the estate of all the Nassaus. 

Rijks Museum is an important building cov- 
ering nearly three acres of ground, erected in 
i877~'85, in the early Dutch Renaissance style. 
The exterior is adorned and ornamented with 
mosaic decorations representing the figures 
and events in the history of Dutch art. To 
the artist the interior arrangement is perfect 
and is a veritable paradise. We cannot go 
into details to any extent more than to say 
that the collections include not only the paint- 



144 From America to Russia. 

ings, drawings and engravings formerly in the 
Royal Museum at the Trippenhuis, and in the 
Museum van der Hoop, but also various pic- 
tures and other works of art collected from the 
Stadhuis, the Huiszittenhuis and elsewhere, 
and the art industrial collections of the old 
Dutch Museum alt the Hague and of the Anti- 
quarium Society at Amsterdam. The 
Museum is surrounded with pleasure grounds 
and enclosed by a tastefully wrought iron rail- 
ing. 

The Zoological Garden is one of the finest 
in Europe and little inferior to that of London. 
It covers 28 acres and is well worth the two to 
three hours' time it requires to make a visit 
through it. The diamond polishing establish- 
ments, the many quaint and neatly kept shops 
lining the narrow streets and ways along the 
canals, exhibiting fine collections of freshly 
polished diamonds and many other precious 
stones and wares, disturbing the peace and 
quiet of our already overburdened trunks and 
bags and depleted purses, were attractive and 
interesting to the extent of maintaining our 
usual enthusiasm to see the sights, regardless 
of the gloom and moisture attending that 
morning's Dutch downpour. None of our 
party visited all of the interesting places of this 



A Day in Amsterdam. 145 

quaint old city, yet some one or more spent 
considerable time in the above named and 
other places with pleasure and profit, not, how- 
ever, of a financial character. 

The principal environ of Amsterdam is 
Zaandam, a town of about 20,000 inhabitants, 
situated about six miles from Amsterdam at 
the influx of the Zaan in the "Y." It is a 
thriving little city, thoroughly Dutch in ap- 
pearance. Our trip down to this place in the 
afternoon was a very pleasant and delightful 
one. It certainly was through the land of the 
wind-mills, as it is said there are about 400 on 
the banks of the Zaan, between these two 
cities; being used for many different purposes, 
comprising oil, saw, corn, paint, cement and 
papermills, as well as, also, to pump water from 
the lowlands over dykes back into the Zaan. 
The surface of the Zaan is several feet above 
the level of the surrounding country, which is 
protected from overflow 7 only by means of 
these embankments. 

The Zaandam Dutch were holding high car- 
nival this day. It was the two-hundredth an- 
niversary of the arrival of Peter the Great of 
Russia. He came hither in the dress of a 
common workman, under the name Peter 
Michaelof, and worked as a ship carpenter, 



146 From America to Russia. 

with a view of acquiring a practical knowledge 
of the art, in order to impart it to his country- 
men. 

The hut of Peter the Great, situated on 
Krimpstraat, is the principal attraction at 
Zaandam. It is a rude wooden structure, now 
protected and preserved by a substantial brick 
building surrounding it and belonging to the 
Czar of Russia. On the front of this brick 
building, over the entrance, is a tablet bearing 
the inscription: "Het Czaarpeter huisje is 
hedur voor het publick gesloten. Het.Con- 
sulaat-Generaal van Rusland," which, in con- 
sequence of the many recent gymnastic 
linguistic performances of the H. P. T's was 
easily understood and translated. The in- 
terior of this hut consists of two small rooms 
and a bed closet. A marble slab over the 
chimney place, bearing the inscription 'Tetro 
Magno Alexander," was placed there by Em- 
peror Alexander, on the occasion of his visit, in 
1 8 14. Another is the one connected with the 
visit of the Czarewitch, in 1839. In conse- 
quence of the nautical phraseology of Russia 
being mainly of Dutch origin, these people 
look upon their city and this little hut as the 
fountain head of the great and powerful Rus- 
sian navy of to-day. 






A Day in Amsterdam . 147 

It was surely a gala occasion, comparing 
with the American circus or country fair day. 
The fathers and mothers, beaux and belles and 
the thousands of school children of this city, 
as well as others from Amsterdam, thronged 
and flooded the principal streets of the place. 
They were dressed in the most weird, unique 
and fantastic costumes, to be described only by 
an expert. The prevailing headdress among 
the women was a sort of helmet, of brass, 
fitting close over the head, decorated with lace 
and ribbons draped and looped in all sorts of 
weird, decorative styles. The balance of their 
outfit, ending in the regulation wooden shoe, 
cut from a block of elm or linden, was equally 
and strangely novel. 

And the costumes worn by some of the men 
will be called to the minds of the party by com- 
paring them with the worst fitting suit of 
bloomers they ever saw on an amateur bicycle 
rider. 

This little side excursion will long be re- 
membered by the members of our party as 
one of the most interesting and instructive of 
the many little trips of this kind suggested and 
provided by our genial and wide-awake Man- 
ager. Amusing incidents of one kind or an- 
other happened almost every day and August 



148 From America to Russia. 

18 was no exception. It loomed up with one 
that, doubtless, would be classed under the list 
of "Another"; and will be called to mind to 
those who were unfortunate enough to witness 
it, by the exclamation of the gentleman who 
was acting in the capacity of guide or escort to 
the crowd on our return from Zaandam, from 
the steamer to the hotel, when, after attract- 
ing and directing the attention of the party, he 
said "O, my Heavens! Isn't that awful!! 
What will they think of me!!!" 

As the day and evening drew to a close and 
the time for our departure came near, feeling 
that we had spent a very pleasant and profit- 
able time in this quaint old city, there still re- 
mained for those of us who were fortunate 
enough to be in the parlors of our hotel the 
most interesting and entertaining feature of 
our stay in Amsterdam, when the accom- 
plished and talented Miss Evelyn R. Mason 
recited for us, among other selections, the 
charming and very appropriate poem of 
Eugene Field, entitled, "In Amsterdam," in a 
manner so pleasing and effective as to leave 
no question in our minds as to her ability as 
an artist, nor of the fact that Eugene Field 
certainly had been in Amsterdam and on the 
Kalverstraat in the capacity of a tourist. 






A Day in Amsterdam. 149 

So ended our stay in this city and we left 
it the night of August 18 with a consciousness 
of regret bordering on delight, feeling that "it 
had been good for us to be here," and that 
our Manager had made no mistake in includ- 
ing it in our itinerary. The day will always 
stand out as a bright one in our many memory 
gems of the H. P. T. of 1897, for we can as- 
sure our friends that in touring Europe their 
recollections will necessarily have to be tinged 
with a shadow of regret, unless they shall 
spend at least "A Day in Amsterdam." 

R. E. Umbel and W. J. Johnson. 






XV. 
AT THE HAGUE. 

THE Holland capital has always seemed 
to me to be one of the most restful and 
delightful of the smaller cities of Eu- 
rope. The people there are not quite so 
Dutchy as at Amsterdam or Rotterdam — one 
should not dislike it if they were, because 
when you are in Holland you expect the in- 
habitants to do what only the Dutch will do, 
and they are a most interesting people with it 
all — and there is an air of refinement about the 
place and its surroundings. There is no jar- 
ring upon your sense of the fitness of things, 
as you walk through its broad squares or shop 
in its tidy stores. A prettiness and tidiness 
and a real solid comfort are to be found every- 
where. If I were not a resident of America, I 
should like to live at The Hasrue. 






At The Hague. 151 

And you have plenty of history and plenty 
of poetry in this home of William of Orange; 
while out on the sea-beach near by is the 
cleanest, neatest, and, in many respects, most 
attractive bathing- place on the Continent. 

We stopped at the Hotel Paulez, just op- 
posite in a diagonal line from the older Vieux 
Doelen. The Vieux Doelen is a more 
fashionable hotel, where many of the aristo- 
cratic people of Europe board for a month or 
two at a time in the summer season. We ob- 
served that our new American Ambassador was 
wise enough to go there, for we happened to 
notice on the afternoon succeeding our arrival 
that the Royal carriage of the Queen came for 
him, in real court style, with postilions in liv- 
ery, to take him to an audience with Her 
Majesty. The Paulez, however, was quiet, 
and had few other guests, and we enjoyed its 
comfortable rooms, though not the tardiness 
of its meals. The electric tramcar passes the 
door, and furnishes an example of the perfec- 
tion of street travel by electric power. What 
is said to be impracticable in America is here 
demonstrated to be entirely feasible, for there 
are no trolley wires, but simply a noiseless 
carriage running over steel rails at a pace fast 
or slow, at the will of the motorman. Each 



i5 2 From America to Russia. 

car has a first and a second-class compartment, 
at very cheap fares, and either one is more 
cosy and comfortable than our American elec- 
tric cars. 

There are just four attractions at The 
Hague which I always want to see when 
visiting this city. The one, least important, of 
course, but not least interesting, is the old 
Pickle Woman's Stand, in the market place. 
She is the same smart, good-natured lady who 
was there in 1874, when I first made her ac- 
quaintance, though possibly it is her daughter 
who now serves the patrons. She has no 
business by day to speak of, and, therefore, I 
would not then walk around the corner to see 
her, if, indeed, she is there at all when the sun 
is shining. But when nine o'clock in the 
evening arrives, and the young Dutch myn- 
heers and dames are on promenade, then her 
booth becomes the center of a scene of earnest 
work which is delightful to observe. She has 
a goodly lot of jars of small pickles and 
several heaped-up baskets of hard-boiled eggs. 
These are all she sells, but an array of white 
shells upon the ground, like fallen blossoms 
of cherry orchards in May, gleam under the 
electric lights, as the scores of her customers 
stand around eating, first a pickle, then an 



At The Hague. 153 

egg, and so alternating until six, seven, or a 
dozen of each are duly swallowed. It goes to 
prove that the true Dutchman's stomach is as 
enduring as leather, and I learn that, because 
of his irreproachable conscience, these small 
things in no wise disturb his night's rest. This 
one woman, with her eggs and pickles, would 
kill off all the younger population of an Amer- 
ican settlement, but at The Hague, where 
everybody has been brought up on them, they 
are simply appetizers, and the young men rise 
up next morning fresh and hearty to push the 
trekschuits, and the young dames still earlier 
to scrub anew the front doorsills. 

The second and more pathetic sight is the 
Binnenhof; the seat of the Dutch Parliament, 
with its ancient hall of the States of the time 
of the Republic. Here, in front of it, on that 
bright May morning in 1649, brave John of 
Barneveld, the great advocate of Holland, 
"whose errors were so few and whose virtues 
were so great," laid down his head upon the 
block, though past seventy years of age, 
simply because he did not belong to the men 
of that generation. Here in this square and 
around it were born so much of Holland 
liberty and so much of princely valor that we 
Americans, who have patterned our patriotism 



154 From America to R 



ussia. 



after these splendid old Netherlanders, should 
never leave this interesting city without rever- 
ently standing before this sacred spot. 

A third attractive place is the Picture Gal- 
lery, or the Royal Museum, in the Maurits 
Huis, where are a half dozen or more really 
great Dutch paintings; one of them known 
the world over as Paul Potter's Bull (though 
I don't care one snap for that bull, while I do 
admire the gentle, patient, perfectly-presented 
cow by his side), and another the chef 
dceuvre of Paul Rembrandt, usually spoken of 
as 'The Lesson in Anatomy." There is here 
some of the best work of Jan Steen, and I do 
not know where else he can be studied to better 
advantage. 

The fourth interesting spot to me is the 
Royal Palace. Not that it contains anything 
worth looking at to one who has seen real 
palaces at St. Petersburg, or Versailles, or 
Potsdam, or even Drottningholm; but rather 
because it is so simple and unroyal. It even 
adjoins the shops of the street on which it 
stands, without so much as an alley between. 
It is the plainest abode of royalty in civilized 
lands. But it is homelike within and has an 
air of business-like comfort without. 

We did not enter the Palace; and, in fact, 




The Young Holland Queen. 

Wilhelmina, born August 31, 1880, will ascend tbe throne in her 
own right August 31, 1898. Her mother, Princess Emma, has been 
Queen Regent since the death of William III. in 1890. She is much 
beloved by her people, who are looking forward with great interest 
to her taking the crown. 



At The Hague. 155 

could not, for the full-flown flag overhead 
showed that the Queen was in residence. But 
I have heretofore wandered over its hard 
floors and enjoyed its inelegant comeliness, and 
this time I had the good fortune, while in- 
quiring concerning the movements of its oc- 
cupants, to see the youthful and pretty Queen 
Wilhelmina herself come up to its large front 
doors in a plain, though red-lined, landau, with 
two attractive horses, and saw the sweet and 
dignified bow with which she always greets 
her subjects when they tinlift hats in her pres- 
ence. She was full of grace and as beautiful 
as fair. The Queen Dowager was at her side, 
a woman of no marked features, dressed in 
black. Others of the party also saw, later, at 
the railway station, this first-named little lady, 
who, next year, in August, when eighteen 
years of age, will take the crown, and, it is to 
be hoped, win to herself more than ever the 
love of all her people. We voted her a hand- 
some, happy, sensible, womanly girl, and may 
her reign be long and her pathway strewed 
with flowers! She has some of the best blood 
of the Kingdom in her veins, and while hers is 
a nation small in numbers, how rich it is in the 
world's best virtues! 

As you walk about this city, so new and yet 



156 From America to Russia. 

a full century older than New York, the 
bright, new arcade of shops, the smooth pave- 
ments, the quiet fish-pond, the picturesque 
Town Hall, the well-shaded streets continue 
to speak of peace, prosperity and plenty, and 
one need not wonder that the rich merchants 
of the little kingdom like to come to The 
Hague and end their days on the Lange Voor- 
hout, when they are tired of poring over their 
East India ledgers. 

The surroundings of The Hague are quite 
as attractive as the city's interior; perhaps 
more so. One has but to drive to the Palace 
in the Wood, so long inhabited by the former 
Queen, who could not live in peace with her 
husband, with its shady avenues, intersected 
by canals; or drive to Scheveningen, to see 
that art and nature have combined to give 
beauty to this "largest village of Europe," 
where, as said an old Dutch author, there is "a 
tree, a flower and a bird for each of 
its 160,000 inhabitants." At the Palace 
in the Wood there are walls adorned 
with satin needlework; hangings and floors 
with costly needlework carpets; paintings 
by Van Dyck and Jordaens and the 
school of Rubens; splendid Japanese fur- 
nishings and plenty of romantic stories 






At The Hague. 157 

connected with each of its two-and-a-half cen- 
tury possessors. The umbrageous trees cover 
fish ponds and larger lakes and pleasant walks. 
The carriages of the wealthy and the feet of 
the poor go to and fro without supervision of 
police or, worse, of newspaper reporters. For 
it must be understood that The Hague, and, in 
fact, nearly all Holland, is so law-abiding, the 
inhabitants are so peaceable, that the jails are 
empty ! 

At Scheveningen our ladies enjoyed 
thoroughly an hour or two in the sun chairs 
upon the beach, watching the bathing wagons 
and bathers, and the rippling waves and far- 
away sails. There was a strong wind blowing 
from the east, but the sun shone brightly, and 
within these covered chairs came quiet and 
rest and a sense of genuine pleasure. There 
is not in Europe a cleaner, wholesomer, more 
restful place than on this brick-paved beach, in 
sight of the spot where occurred one of the 
finest Dutch naval victories that history 
records. When De Ruyter whipped both the 
English and French navies, Holland was at its 
zenith of glory. 

Did you ever read garrulous Sam. Pepy's 
"Diary"? If you did, you remember how he 
danced attendance upon Charles the Second, 



158 From America to Russia. 

when that historic character, of handsome 
figure but graceless morals, embarked at 
Scheveningen to take possession of the Eng- 
lish throne. And here it was that Englishmen 
flocked to beg Prince William of Orange to 
accept the crown of their misgoverned island. 
I doubt not that, when Chesterfield was Am- 
bassador to Holland, and when Louis Bona- 
parte held swav under the great Napoleon's 
tenure, this beach, as sandy and solid as now, 
the waives before it just as yellow-green and 
the air above it just as brisk and penetrating, 
captivated and charmed as it does to-day. It 
is a spot for rest, for meditation and for holy 
resolves. 

Once upon a time the writer left The Hague 
on the canal aboard a trekschuit and went to 
Delft. It was in a day when Delft ware was not 
so much sought after in America as now, and 
was comparatively little known. The journey 
was taken simply to have the restful feeling of 
being towed along the canal by man-power 
(for some of the distance by a horse) and to 
observe how the Dutch passed their time in 
garden, back-yard and field, for we skimmed 
slowly along by each in turn. Then, as now, 
the country meadows were dotted with my- 
riads of the choicest cattle. The sights were 



At The Hague. 159 

numerous, novel, humorous, instructive. It 
was an experience never to be forgotten. 

And so my one regret now is that the short- 
ness of the time prevented the party of 1897 
from going upon just such a journey over to 
Delft, or to Leyden. It is one of the easiest 
things to do in Holland, the most natural and 
most interesting, but something few travelers 
endeavor to accomplish. When next we come 
to this land of Queen Wilhelmina, let us, first, 
in the evening, all visit the old woman in the 
market square, and, next day, take the 
trekschuit for a six-mile pull, as our Holland 
forefathers formerly did for at least ten genera- 
tions. 

A. V. D. Hone ym an. 




XVI. 

HOMEWARD BOUND. 

DARK and dreary dawned the morning of 
August 21, the day we were to turn 
our faces toward our native land and 
leave behind the places where two very delight- 
ful months had been spent. 

As we left the wharf at Antwerp and be- 
gan the passage down the treacherous river 
Scheldt, we saw anchored the American man- 
of-war "San Francisco," whose band on deck 
was playing "Auld Lang Syne," but, as their 
gaze traveled over to the "Friesland" and they 
saw the numerous American flags being fran- 
tically waved over the railing, the tune 
changed to one of Sousa's most charming two- 
steps, the "Washington Post." 

Every one rose with alacrity when the bugle 
call sounded for luncheon, and I am sure not 



Homeward Bound. 161 

a few upon leaving the saloon wondered 
whether dinner would seem equally inviting. 

That morning we remained on deck to 
watch the funny little Dutch towns, as they 
came in view, with the 'unique aspect of the 
dykes enclosing them. Some hours later we 
saw our river pilot depart in his row boat, and 
then we passed into the North Sea and 
through the Dover Straits. 

Dinner was well attended, with the excep- 
tion of those who concluded the air was more 
refreshing on deck. 

Sunday morning we were passing the chalk 
cliffs of England, well on our way toward the 
ocean. We were much disappointed when on 
entering the saloon to find there was to be 
no service. We had one or two ministers on 
board, but possibly the effects of mal-de-mer 
prevented their making any attempt to get 
farther than the deck. At all events, so we 
thought, but when the next Sunday the same 
neglect was repeated, we thought — otherwise. 

In the afternoon the Lizard was passed and 
shortly after we saw the Lily light, our last 
glimpse of land. 

Monday the good ship was making labored 
efforts to ride the gigantic waves, which rose 
about her and, in consequence, forcing many 



1 62 From America to Russia. 

of her passengers to remain below. Meals 
were poorly attended and even books held no 
attraction. 

In the afternoon a terrific gale came on, and 
by night the rain was falling in torrents. A 
few of 'the more courageous ones remained on 
deck with rugs wrapped tightly about them 
and umbrellas as shields from the rain and 
waves. 

Just here let me say the ginger snaps and 
soda crackers now gave out, and those whose 
appetites had withstood the pitching and roll- 
ing were forced to content themselves with 
lemons and an occasional orange. 

Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday 
passed by with rapidity. There were good 
times; some high seas, but not to kick up 
much of a frolic with the passengers. Occa- 
sional games of "shuffle board" and "ring 
toss" were tried and a few regularly gathered 
in the saloon when evening came on to play 
"whist" and wait till lemonade and sandwiches 
were passed around at nine o'clock. 

Few and far between were the sunsets, as fog 
reigned supreme, and, I think, when the time 
came for clearing the decks, there was noth- 
ing to clear but chairs. 

Saturday was spent in the usual quiet way 



Homeward Bound. 163 

until evening", when preparations began for a 
dance on the port deck. Benches and chairs 
were removed and the sides were first enclosed 
with large sheets of canvas and then covered 
with the different national flags. Electric 
lights were arranged artistically and the piano 
held an important place. All this was due to 
the captain's thoughtfulness and generosity. 
At eight the dancing began, and everything 
was entirely satisfactory — except the music. 
A man was finally discovered who played the 
violin, but after one or two efforts he retired 
highly disgusted with his own performance. 
After that a few desultory attempts were made 
and then two men made their appearance from 
the steerage with accordions. Dancing pro- 
gressed finely until half-past ten, when it was 
interrupted by the serving of refreshments. A 
little more dancing — and people retired from 
the scene of action to claim a much needed rest 
after their undue exertions. 

Sunday numerous remarks were flying 
about that we would not get in until Tuesday 
morning, as the run for the past three days had 
been "very poor," and anxiously did everyone 
await the coming of the chart. By noon the 
crowd was almost impenetrable, and as the 
first cue caught a glimpse of "390 miles," our 



164 From America to Russia. 

longest run, a wild halloo of joy went up, and 
we knew the morrow would see us safely 
landed. 

Many of the ocean-lovers who had made 
bets concerning the run were highly disap- 
pointed, but they were in the minority. 

Sunday afternoon the bell tolled for a fire 
drill and the jolly tars put to with a will. One 
poor fellow, miscalculating his distance (and 
when once in place he could not stir), received 
for ten minutes the full volume of water from 
the largest hose. 

Monday, at eleven o'clock, we saw the most 
welcome sight to Americans homeward bound, 
Fire Island, with its spiral lighthouse and long 
stretch of sandy beach just visible through the 
mist; it looked, indeed, its welcome. 

Then confusion reigned throughout the 
ship, trunks were hauled up out of the hold, 
lusty shouts were heard from the sailors fore 
and aft, steamer trunks were busily packed, 
umbrellas, rugs and cushions strapped, while 
constant calling after the different stewards 
made a good accompaniment. 

Soon Sandy Hook came in sight and the 
"Friesland" stopped to take on the pilot, who 
was to steer us through the intricacies of the 
bay. As he came on board a grand rush was 



Homeward Bound. 165 

made to secure the New York papers he 
brought with him. 

Luncheon was served at 1.30, instead of 12, 
and I am going to add a word in favor of our 
table steward. All future passengers, who 
have the good fortune of sitting at the cap- 
tain's table on the "Friesland" and who are 
waited upon by the assistant steward, will 
scarcely find a more polite, obliging and well 
educated man. So, in fact, are all the stew- 
ards, but he was an exception in some partic- 
ulars. 

After luncheon we bade adieu to those 
whom we had been associated with so long-. 
It seemed rather sad, now that we had reached 
home, to say "good-bye" to those friends who 
had shared our comforts and discomforts on 
the other side of the Atlantic. Leaning over 
the rail of the vessel, as she slowly wended her 
way up the bay, were those who were coming 
to America for the first time; others who had 
been visiting their own country and were re- 
turning; and still others,Mike ourselves, who 
gazed toward the coast of Long Island and 
realized that, 

" Though on foreign shores we may roam, 
Be it ever so far away, 
There's no place like ' Home.' " 



1 66 From America to Russia. 

The remembrances of the eternal cities of 
the Czar, the Empire of Kaiser Wilhelm, 
even the realms of Queen Victoria, all faded 
from our minds when, we beheld the high and 
lofty buildings of New York city. The 
sovereign colors of the mighty nations of 
Europe blended in one more glorious emblem, 
the Stars and Stripes. 

At three P. M., as the "Friesland" lowered 
her gangplank and we stepped upon an 
American pier, did we not think of the oft re- 
peated verse: 

"Breathes there a man with soul so dead, 
That never to himself hath said 
This is my own, my native land?" 

Ad^le S. Mason. 




& & & & & & «&. aj£ aji i>. ^ji 5jj£ & & jgt 5jt 3jj£ 

~i "1 "I "('""<[' "i "j "1 "( "J "J "( v ( ' 



MEMBERS OF PARTY. 

Barry, Mrs. Frances H., Wilmington, Del. 
Bennett, Rev. William R., Madison, N. J. 
Chase, Mr. Louis A., Plainfield, N. J. 
Coit, Mrs. Alfred, New London, Conn. 
Donnell, Capt. E. P., Bath, Me. 
Donnell, Mrs. E. P., Bath, Me. 
Donnell, Mrs. Jennie C, Bath, Me. 
Estil, Mr. Mulford, Plainfield, N. J. 
Ewing, Hon. John K., Uniontown, Pa. 
Ewing, Hon. Nathaniel, Uniontown, Pa. 
Guerin, Mrs. Leonora D., Morristown, N. J. 
Guerin, Miss Mabel T., Morristown, N. J. 
Honeyman, A. V. D. (Manager), Plainfield, N. J. 
Hundley, Hon. Oscar R., Huntsville, Ala. 
Hundley, Mrs. Oscar R., Huntsville, Ala. 
Johnson, Mr. W. J., Uniontown, Pa. 
Knipe, Jacob O., M. D., Norristown, Pa. 
Knipe, Mrs. Clara P., Norristown, Pa. 
Mason, Mrs. E. S., New York City. 
Mason, Miss Evelyn R., New York City. 
Mason, Miss Adele, New York City. 
Stoddard, Miss Elizabeth J., New Brunswick, N.J. 
Titcomb, Miss Charlotte, Burlington, N. J. 
Umbel, Mr. R. E., Uniontown, Pa. 
Williams, Mrs. W. L., Paterson, N. J. 
Williams, Miss Henrietta F., Paterson, N. J. 



